Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

I found that Galliano video rather uncomfortable to watch. I love what he has done as a designer but his personality, the way of being is off putting to me. He looks dead inside. There were no true emotions, just empty words.
the only time he sounded genuinely emotional was when he mentioned steven. otherwise, it just sounds like he's performing.
 
Hedi at Chanel…Yeah…Dreadful.
We have seen everything he has to offer in terms of womenswear and yet, people expect fireworks, a revolution in Couture. It will be another bead fest with silver and gold gowns, black and white, p*ssy bows…Yes, the partition we all know.

Even if I love the Hedi inspired collections Karl did, it was his genius to translate what he loved and wore from Hedi to what he presented on the runway.

I guess Hedi’s clothes with Chanel prices would be newsworthy though.

Even if I don’t think it will ever happen (the Chanel rumors have been going since 2007), let’s just imagine what it would look like:

- Hedi will design Chanel collections from his studio in Saint Tropez…Totally detached from the two Ateliers in Rue Cambon?
- Hedi will redesign the stores to his taste?
- Hedi will introduce his permanent collection?
- Hedi will be responsible for Chanel beauty? Chanel Haute Joaillerie?
- Hedi will shoot all the campaigns for all the activities?
- I guess reintroducing the menswear at Chanel will be a thing from him where I can’t put a question mark.

For Hedi to be considered for Chanel, it means that he is close to the Weirthemers, Bruno Pavlovsky or people from Chanel…Which is simply not the case since his fall out with Karl years ago (even if they reunited later).

Having Hedi at Chanel would probably mean for the house to change it Entire operation In order to accommodate 1 man, when, the brand is doing good financially.

I think Virginie got the job because it was the right thing to do but also the most comfortable thing to do. She comes to the Atelier, most of people from Karl’s previous team are there.

Chanel is a personal challenge and a goal for a lot of designers.
For Hedi to take that job means that he will have to compromise a lot. Karl did compromised.
Is Hedi capable of that?

I wouldn’t mind him doing his thing at Chanel but one look in the “Couture Clients” thread or at what happened to all the designers who made a step up in their careers in the past 20 years and we all know it’s a double edged sword as you trade the freedom and cool of being an insiders' designer (as Hedi, Nicolas and Raf were at the beginning of their careers) for a position where you have to appeal to a much wider (and often more conservative) demography.

I loved it when Hedi’s ultra-rigorous Dior Homme interiors felt like a provocative middle finger to the stuffy vision of Peter Marino and the commercial merchandise of all the other Dior lines (womenswear, maison, parfums and Baby Dior) they inhabited. He gave my generation the cool of what Helmut Lang was in it’s heydays but with the refinement and sophistication of a real luxury maison.

As a fan from the early days, I look at his Celine today with mixed feelings, trying to ignore the foul compromises for the sake of broader commerciality when in the past I had already complained about Dior Homme’s broadening popularity. I hated all the sneakers, t-shirts and broadened jeanswear when all I wanted from Hedi was the most uncompromising, modernist fashion that mirrored the set designs, store concepts and early days photography. The women that wore his clothes mirrored that androgynous flair. The fact that it didn’t contain any garments that were explicitly 'female' by design gave that offering an integrity that would later get lost when he did proper womenswear at Saint Laurent with much bigger demands for commerciality. The best clothes he made for women during that period were the ones most resembling his menswear, I loved that he gave women all these fabulous shoes from the menswear in women’s sizes - A welcome alternative to the shoes imagined by his womenswear designer peers that were actually wearable and comfortable!

20 years later, I can still see a glimmer of what I originally got to love about Hedi in his Celine, a piece here and there, the store designs, the visuals and parfums that still clearly have his handwriting. But at the core of it all, Celine is already too classical, too bourgeois, too much 'lifestyle brand' with too many softened edges. The idea that this man would design straw handbags, dog toys etc. would have been unimaginable to my younger self.

So yeah, from that perspective, I would hate him at Chanel - If anything at all, I would love him for Hermès (and it would make much more sense as a next chapter after Celine).
 
To be honest, I really doubt Chanel is working and selling well. That's what I heard from French execs (and family:(
- they are happy that Kering is the focus of the conversation
- they haven't attracted new customers in years, they just increase prices to the customers they have
- their quota bags policy isn't working as expected, it as a deterring effect.
- they are also unhappy because they don't have any clear strategy and directions for the 5/10 years to come. The Wertheimers (74 and 75 yo) have grown very desinterested and don't know what to do for their succession, every couple of years they are thinking of selling and every time they reached the same conclusion: who would buy us at 150 billions or more ?
Interesting! Tbh, that’s what I thought before reading tfsers saying Chanel was doing amazing in boutiques, but I know nothing about Chanel and, sadly, I don’t have access to their figures. I guess their sales are huge still, but not sure what’s the trend.

The elite people I know buy much more rtw at Dior… I think Chanel clothes are not that easy to sell in Europe and even more when you don’t have the legend to back it up. Virginie is super bland, that’s undeniable, and her shows don’t get attention. Chanel is like out of the map for people who love fashion, although I think rich people don’t even know and don’t even care that much.

Aside from the garbage bag, I don’t think people desire their bags. 2.55 is my all time favourite te bag, but now it’s like the Kelly and the Birkin, for luxury pr*st*t*s. I also see many people complaining about the quality (which is a shame for those prices).

As much as I love(d) Ghesquière, I don’t see him at Chanel. Chanel has too many collections and he has lost his touch in a way. Also, I find him too fashion for a brand like this. And, in a way, he kind of belongs to another era. His collections feel a little bit anachronistic and passé. There is no air du temps in him anymore.

I could only see Phoebe and Hedi, and Phoebe might be little bit too fashion also.
 
To be honest, I really doubt Chanel is working and selling well. That's what I heard from French execs (and family:(
- they are happy that Kering is the focus of the conversation
- they haven't attracted new customers in years, they just increase prices to the customers they have
- their quota bags policy isn't working as expected, it as a deterring effect.
- they are also unhappy because they don't have any clear strategy and directions for the 5/10 years to come. The Wertheimers (74 and 75 yo) have grown very desinterested and don't know what to do for their succession, every couple of years they are thinking of selling and every time they reached the same conclusion: who would buy us at 150 billions or more ?
The last bloomberg interview Chanel CEO did last week she mentioned 30 % are new first time customers / first time buyers of total Chanel sales.

Chanel reports its financial performance once a year, generally around late May. Revenue rose 17% to $17.2 billion in 2022.
Chanel has announced its financial results for the full 2021 year with revenues of US$15.6 billion, an increase of 49.6% over 2020 and 22.9% over pre-pandemic 2019.
Chanel has announced its fiscal year 2020 results that showed revenue was $10.1 billion, an 18% decline compared to 2019. ( pandemic )

This statistic depicts the brand value of the leading 10 most valuable luxury brands worldwide in 2023. In that year, Chanel was the third most valuable luxury brand worldwide with a brand value of about 56 billion U.S. dollars.
LVMH
(Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) was the most valuable luxury brand in the world, with a brand value of about 124.8 billion U.S. dollars in 2023.

Also when Karl was there was always gossip going around offline and online that Chanel is doing bad and going to sell , that why Chanel stared to show there numbers once a year to shut down rumors as well.

Like Rolex The Wertheimers can make chale in to a foundation if they are not here anymore why sell of if they are dead any ways at some point and they do have family


04:10 - Leena Nair on Chanel's clients, Gen Z and Alpha customers, Coco Chanel's legacy (30 % is new first time customers first time buyers )

I likes facts when it comes to sales numbers :-)
 
Hedi at Chanel…Yeah…Dreadful.
We have seen everything he has to offer in terms of womenswear and yet, people expect fireworks, a revolution in Couture. It will be another bead fest with silver and gold gowns, black and white, p*ssy bows…Yes, the partition we all know.

Even if I love the Hedi inspired collections Karl did, it was his genius to translate what he loved and wore from Hedi to what he presented on the runway.

I guess Hedi’s clothes with Chanel prices would be newsworthy though.

Even if I don’t think it will ever happen (the Chanel rumors have been going since 2007), let’s just imagine what it would look like:

- Hedi will design Chanel collections from his studio in Saint Tropez…Totally detached from the two Ateliers in Rue Cambon?
- Hedi will redesign the stores to his taste?
- Hedi will introduce his permanent collection?
- Hedi will be responsible for Chanel beauty? Chanel Haute Joaillerie?
- Hedi will shoot all the campaigns for all the activities?
- I guess reintroducing the menswear at Chanel will be a thing from him where I can’t put a question mark.

For Hedi to be considered for Chanel, it means that he is close to the Weirthemers, Bruno Pavlovsky or people from Chanel…Which is simply not the case since his fall out with Karl years ago (even if they reunited later).

Having Hedi at Chanel would probably mean for the house to change it Entire operation In order to accommodate 1 man, when, the brand is doing good financially.

I think Virginie got the job because it was the right thing to do but also the most comfortable thing to do. She comes to the Atelier, most of people from Karl’s previous team are there.

Chanel is a personal challenge and a goal for a lot of designers.
For Hedi to take that job means that he will have to compromise a lot. Karl did compromised.
Is Hedi capable of that?
What a lovely analyzation. And dead on but in this world anything can happen and people change for the right positions.
 
Interesting! Tbh, that’s what I thought before reading tfsers saying Chanel was doing amazing in boutiques, but I know nothing about Chanel and, sadly, I don’t have access to their figures. I guess their sales are huge still, but not sure what’s the trend.

The elite people I know buy much more rtw at Dior… I think Chanel clothes are not that easy to sell in Europe and even more when you don’t have the legend to back it up. Virginie is super bland, that’s undeniable, and her shows don’t get attention. Chanel is like out of the map for people who love fashion, although I think rich people don’t even know and don’t even care that much.

Aside from the garbage bag, I don’t think people desire their bags. 2.55 is my all time favourite te bag, but now it’s like the Kelly and the Birkin, for luxury pr*st*t*s. I also see many people complaining about the quality (which is a shame for those prices).

As much as I love(d) Ghesquière, I don’t see him at Chanel. Chanel has too many collections and he has lost his touch in a way. Also, I find him too fashion for a brand like this. And, in a way, he kind of belongs to another era. His collections feel a little bit anachronistic and passé. There is no air du temps in him anymore.

I could only see Phoebe and Hedi, and Phoebe might be little bit too fashion also.
Ghesquière is a no for me to. He work wonders at Balenciaga but his LV never did anything for me two artsy fartsy. Phoebe ? 🤣 She wouldn't even step into the couture rooms and she's a very uppity with those prices but actually she's insecure her new collections is nice and I like them but yea no ! Chanel needs a feminine girl as the image with a customer between the age of 35 and 70 she cannot tap into that market.
 
i think some TFSers are forgetting the first four or five years after sarah took over mcqueen... there was a complete creative vision. you may not have liked it but the imagination was there, as was lee's spirit. the white a-line dress and combat boot lesbo look was only a feature in the latter half of her solo tenure at the house. as @Lola701 said, givenchy needs stability. what better option that a technically brilliant designer adept at both flou and tailleur? after that, all the house needs is some effective marketing, imaginative visuals and a set of core bags/accessories/shoes to boost sales. it doesn't take a genius merchandiser to accomplish that.

but all in all, i take umbrage most that her being "too mcqueen" would in any way hinder a givenchy appointment. i still don't know what that even means? are desirable, competently constructed tailored separates and dresses now exclusive to just mcqueen? it's such a mindless reason. her vision for women has always been softer, more feminine and most importantly, more SAFE than lee's. is that not exactly what LVMH wants?
It's what they need ! She would be great at givenchy. To be honest with you I had zero problems with her other than she let the theatrics go at McQueen which was good. Because now they're trying to revive that side of the house and look at what a mess that turned out to be! By the way her menwears was excellent unfortunately I'm too fat and poor to purchase it. I never understood the hate she got.
 
It's what they need ! She would be great at givenchy. To be honest with you I had zero problems with her other than she let the theatrics go at McQueen which was good. Because now they're trying to revive that side of the house and look at what a mess that turned out to be! By the way her menwears was excellent unfortunately I'm too fat and poor to purchase it. I never understood the hate she got.
her menswear at mcqueen was excellent. i own several pieces and although they err more on the side of casual and less formal, they're still immaculately well-made (and with high-quality material to boot).
 
The last bloomberg interview Chanel CEO did last week she mentioned 30 % are new first time customers / first time buyers of total Chanel sales.

Chanel reports its financial performance once a year, generally around late May. Revenue rose 17% to $17.2 billion in 2022.
Chanel has announced its financial results for the full 2021 year with revenues of US$15.6 billion, an increase of 49.6% over 2020 and 22.9% over pre-pandemic 2019.
Chanel has announced its fiscal year 2020 results that showed revenue was $10.1 billion, an 18% decline compared to 2019. ( pandemic )

This statistic depicts the brand value of the leading 10 most valuable luxury brands worldwide in 2023. In that year, Chanel was the third most valuable luxury brand worldwide with a brand value of about 56 billion U.S. dollars.
LVMH
(Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) was the most valuable luxury brand in the world, with a brand value of about 124.8 billion U.S. dollars in 2023.

Also when Karl was there was always gossip going around offline and online that Chanel is doing bad and going to sell , that why Chanel stared to show there numbers once a year to shut down rumors as well.

Like Rolex The Wertheimers can make chale in to a foundation if they are not here anymore why sell of if they are dead any ways at some point and they do have family


04:10 - Leena Nair on Chanel's clients, Gen Z and Alpha customers, Coco Chanel's legacy (30 % is new first time customers first time buyers )

I likes facts when it comes to sales numbers :-)

These numbers are insane but we must remember the only reason Chanel is popular today is because of Karl like it or not also Chanel under the new director has turned into a very funny brand it does have a stale look about it but it's still fashion and high end luxury wear mixed together. And they sell a shitload of accessories which is funny because Virginia is so bad at shoes she makes the most ugly runway shoes hey hello shoes and pants I've ever seen in my life but there are multiple other collections that they produced and accessories that we never see on the runway strictly for the stores and they are gorgeous. And women over 45 go crazy for them and some young girls.
 
her menswear at mcqueen was excellent. i own several pieces and although they err more on the side of casual and less formal, they're still immaculately well-made (and with high-quality material to boot).
Would love to see your collection I have a friend that actually works there and he has a great body and he ordereds some of the pieces custom from the runway he looks like he just stepped out of the showroom it's something to see.
 
These numbers are insane but we must remember the only reason Chanel is popular today is because of Karl like it or not also Chanel under the new director has turned into a very funny brand it does have a stale look about it but it's still fashion and high end luxury wear mixed together. And they sell a shitload of accessories which is funny because Virginia is so bad at shoes she makes the most ugly runway shoes hey hello shoes and pants I've ever seen in my life but there are multiple other collections that they produced and accessories that we never see on the runway strictly for the stores and they are gorgeous. And women over 45 go crazy for them and some young girls.
I loved Karl but Chanel had also success before, when Coco Chanel was alive 2x times once before the war and second time after with her come back she was copied even then. :smile:

But absolutely Karl brought it to next levels of exposure and solidified the myth of Chanel and it codes made even more clear and a luxury fashion house benchmark with in the industry even if there is now issues with quality and price increases often mentioned etc

My point to show the sales numbers was only regarding to ongoing myth that Chanel is doing bad year after year i see comments and youtubers say it while for some years the number are out online to read. Even with in the industry offline i hear this myth when Karl was alive i remember.
 
The last bloomberg interview Chanel CEO did last week she mentioned 30 % are new first time customers / first time buyers of total Chanel sales.

Chanel reports its financial performance once a year, generally around late May. Revenue rose 17% to $17.2 billion in 2022.
Chanel has announced its financial results for the full 2021 year with revenues of US$15.6 billion, an increase of 49.6% over 2020 and 22.9% over pre-pandemic 2019.
Chanel has announced its fiscal year 2020 results that showed revenue was $10.1 billion, an 18% decline compared to 2019. ( pandemic )

This statistic depicts the brand value of the leading 10 most valuable luxury brands worldwide in 2023. In that year, Chanel was the third most valuable luxury brand worldwide with a brand value of about 56 billion U.S. dollars.
LVMH
(Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) was the most valuable luxury brand in the world, with a brand value of about 124.8 billion U.S. dollars in 2023.

Also when Karl was there was always gossip going around offline and online that Chanel is doing bad and going to sell , that why Chanel stared to show there numbers once a year to shut down rumors as well.

Like Rolex The Wertheimers can make chale in to a foundation if they are not here anymore why sell of if they are dead any ways at some point and they do have family


04:10 - Leena Nair on Chanel's clients, Gen Z and Alpha customers, Coco Chanel's legacy (30 % is new first time customers first time buyers )

I likes facts when it comes to sales numbers :-)

Interesting! Thank you for sharing!

I am wondering, this is Chanel retail rtw/acc network or beauty is also included? And it is WW I guess. I think APAC and US must be the stronger zones for Chanel (maybe not, just guessing), so I wonder how they are doing in Europe (which is more challenging sometimes because the wealth level is not the same).

Also, we have to know if it’s in a comparative base or not (where I live they opened a new Chanel store for example), so the comp for this market would be a little bit “unfair” if we are taking into consideration 2022.
I know a brand that reported a -6% drop, but the truth is that they opened 6 new POS in Europe… so the drop would’ve been -30% in a comparative base. It’s always tricky.

I’d love to know how boutiques in particular are performing. And would also love to know the trend in the categories… 🫣 but that’s impossible I guess.

I do think there must be new customers for the shoes, because price wise they are more or less the same as the competitors and their ballerinas and slingbacks are kind of trendy. And new rich might still buy their bags as a status symbol.

Anyway, the campaign with Penelope and Brad seems a little bit desperate. Like if they really needed to push sales… idk
 
Interesting! Thank you for sharing!

I am wondering, this is Chanel retail rtw/acc network or beauty is also included? And it is WW I guess. I think APAC and US must be the stronger zones for Chanel (maybe not, just guessing), so I wonder how they are doing in Europe (which is more challenging sometimes because the wealth level is not the same).

Also, we have to know if it’s in a comparative base or not (where I live they opened a new Chanel store for example), so the comp for this market would be a little bit “unfair” if we are taking into consideration 2022.
I know a brand that reported a -6% drop, but the truth is that they opened 6 new POS in Europe… so the drop would’ve been -30% in a comparative base. It’s always tricky.

I’d love to know how boutiques in particular are performing. And would also love to know the trend in the categories… 🫣 but that’s impossible I guess.

I do think there must be new customers for the shoes, because price wise they are more or less the same as the competitors and their ballerinas and slingbacks are kind of trendy. And new rich might still buy their bags as a status symbol.

Anyway, the campaign with Penelope and Brad seems a little bit desperate. Like if they really needed to push sales… idk
You can see more on chanel.com in the files the financial-results from 2017 to 2022 and company motives and some other nice guiding info.

Breakdown by category is harder to get insights they talk about it but don't provide numbers , you would have to puzzle that from interviews and make a overview.

USD 2022
Revenue total 17.224
EUROPE 4.720
ASIA PACIFIC 8.645
AMERICAS 3.859

Let's wait and see what the 2023 rapport says when it comes out in May but i am sure it was another good year again like Hermes.
 
2019-04-08-34334856-239789553448138-6909062680733024256-n.jpg

VOGUE.COM


I always thought Marc Jacobs would be the perfect match for Chanel. For many obvious reasons.
Let's be real, Virginie Viard never delivered a single "iconic" collection on her own since KL died.
There is no story telling, no strong runways moments nor red carpet presence. No new IT bag.
Marc Jacobs would create directional shows, real fashion campaigns and I think new cool bags (like he did for his brand and at Vuitton).
Plus he embodies the brand perfectly in my opinion.
 
Interesting! Thank you for sharing!

I am wondering, this is Chanel retail rtw/acc network or beauty is also included? And it is WW I guess. I think APAC and US must be the stronger zones for Chanel (maybe not, just guessing), so I wonder how they are doing in Europe (which is more challenging sometimes because the wealth level is not the same).

Also, we have to know if it’s in a comparative base or not (where I live they opened a new Chanel store for example), so the comp for this market would be a little bit “unfair” if we are taking into consideration 2022.
I know a brand that reported a -6% drop, but the truth is that they opened 6 new POS in Europe… so the drop would’ve been -30% in a comparative base. It’s always tricky.

I’d love to know how boutiques in particular are performing. And would also love to know the trend in the categories… 🫣 but that’s impossible I guess.

I do think there must be new customers for the shoes, because price wise they are more or less the same as the competitors and their ballerinas and slingbacks are kind of trendy. And new rich might still buy their bags as a status symbol.

Anyway, the campaign with Penelope and Brad seems a little bit desperate. Like if they really needed to push sales… idk

WWD › Beauty › Beauty Features

21 Apr 2023
CHANEL LTD. LONDON.
2022 BEAUTY SALES: $7.05 BILLION (EST.) +10% vs. 2021
 
interesting update (which i received late yesterday) courtesy of lauren sherman. anna is determined, it seems...

Screenshot 2024-04-30 at 08.57.19.png
 
if galliano goes to givenchy then i hope burton goes to chanel 😍 hopefully she learned some french.

However if not Burton, i think givenchy needs someone fresh who could produce desirable merch. it wasnt really such a big task for the past designers as Givenchy sells itself already. So it took some really really bad talent and bad decisions from the suits to arrive to where they are at now. maybe someone like alexandre mattiussi be great for givenchy.
 
I hope LVMH people stands on their ground and don’t fall for the possibility of John coming back to Givenchy.

How about a Japanese designer for once!?
Give it to Jun Takahashi!

How about fighting for his namesake brand Anna?!
 
I hope LVMH people stands on their ground and don’t fall for the possibility of John coming back to Givenchy.

How about a Japanese designer for once!?
Give it to Jun Takahashi!

How about fighting for his namesake brand Anna?!

And which argument exactly would prove that could turn out a promising choice for LVMH?

He's Tokyo-based, there is a communication barrier which could make it difficult for him to integrate with the existing teams and his own brand is very much a 'for insider' thing with it's momentum having been in the early 2000s. Despite the fact Givenchy closed it's Haute Couture operation, red carpet / celebrity dressing would still be an integral part of promoting the house under a new designer. Claire Waight Keller regularly had Cate Blanchett and Megan Markle in her clothes, is a designer like him really going to have a reach to Western celebrities and appeal to that taste?

Should Sarah Burton be out of consideration for the job, I think entrusting designers such as Haider Ackermann or Olivier Theyskens would make a lot of sense - First of all, the streetwear-trend has been squeezed too hard out of this brand and all signs of where fashion is headed align more towards something a bit more mature after that. In terms of the fashion, that means, great tailored separates and perhaps more eveningwear again to really build a new image for the tarnished image this house has had since Tisci's departure and Waight Keller's lackluster reception. Haider Ackermann's Gaultier Couture was a success and he has his trusted supporters - And despite the fact Olivier hasn't shown a collection for some seasons either, he managed to put the dresses of his recent Couture trilogy on the right people as well as in the press. With both Haider and Olivier at the helm, Givenchy would be assured to become THE hottest Red Carpet brand. Plus, they are Paris-based and both free (and likely willing) to take on a prestigious job as that, would they be asked.
 
And which argument exactly would prove that could turn out a promising choice for LVMH?

He's Tokyo-based, there is a communication barrier which could make it difficult for him to integrate with the existing teams and his own brand is very much a 'for insider' thing with it's momentum having been in the early 2000s. Despite the fact Givenchy closed it's Haute Couture operation, red carpet / celebrity dressing would still be an integral part of promoting the house under a new designer. Claire Waight Keller regularly had Cate Blanchett and Megan Markle in her clothes, is a designer like him really going to have a reach to Western celebrities and appeal to that taste?

This brand should really go to designers such as Haider Ackermann or Olivier Theyskens for several reasons - First of all, the streetwear-trend has been squeezed too hard out of this brand and all signs of where fashion is headed align more towards something a bit more mature after that. In terms of the fashion, that means, great tailored separates and perhaps more eveningwear again to really build a new image for the tarnished image this house has had since Tisci's departure and Waight Keller's lackluster reception. Haider Ackermann's Gaultier Couture was a success and he has his trusted supporters - And despite the fact Olivier hasn't shown a collection for some seasons either, he managed to put the dresses of his recent Couture trilogy on the right people as well as in the press. With both Haider and Olivier at the helm, Givenchy would be assured to become THE hottest Red Carpet brand. Plus, they are Paris-based and both free (and likely willing) to take on a prestigious job as that, would they be asked.
To be honest, i just threw his name around like people like to throw Olivier’s name.

Haider would be my dream anyway anywhere at this point.

But for god sake, no Galliano at Givenchy! No, No, No!
No Galliano at Givenchy, No Hedi at Chanel.
 

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