Bernie Flood
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(Nancy White Image by Getty Images)
Nancy White assumed the helm of Harper's Bazaar in 1958, succeeding her legendary aunt, Carmel Snow. Following the Hearst Decision, Diana Vreeland famously quipped, "We need an artist, but they hire a house painter." White's tenure, however, proved to be much more than just maintaining the status quo. Miss White's editorial approach differed significantly from Snow and Vreeland. Her fashion taste was described as formal, reserved, and white glove conservative, focusing on classic elegance which was the opposite of the psychedelic 60's. However, White's quiet competence and sharp eye for talent propelled Harper's Bazaar through a dynamic period in fashion history .Miss White also supervised the international British and German editions of Harper's Bazaar.
She championed the work of legendary photographers such as Bob Richardson, Hiro, Richard Avedon, James Moore, Silano, Bill King, and Guy Bourdin. She gave Anderson Cooper his magazine debut, captured by the iconic Diane Arbus. Photographer Deborah Turbeville was one of Miss White's editors. The superstar Ali McGraw also worked at Harper's Bazaar under Miss White, initially as an assistant to Mrs. Vreeland and later becoming a stylist for Melvin Sokolsky.
Notable Milestones:
- Donyale Luna Cover: Miss White and her fashion team were so captivated by Donyale Luna's beauty that they decided to feature a sketch of Luna on the January 1965 cover of Harper's Bazaar. This issue holds historical significance as it showcases Luna, one of the first African American models to grace the "cover" of a major fashion magazine, marking a milestone in the industry's representation.
- Pop Issue: The April 1965 issue, guest-edited by Richard Avedon, became a cultural touchstone, capturing the beginning of the youthful energy of the "swinging sixties" with Jean Shrimpton on the cover. This issue served as a flashpoint for a new insurgent popular culture, aspiring to be "a partial passport to the off-beat side of Now." The cover featured a close-up of British model Jean Shrimpton, surrounded by a Matisse-like pink cutout reminiscent of an astronaut's helmet. Inside, the magazine celebrated icons like Bob Dylan, the Beatles, go-go boots, and space exploration. It also marked the end of the diet era and introduced Donyale Luna, who grace the cover of Bazaar just three months prior (Luna's editorial was highly controversial and resulted to advertisers boycott)
- The Dynamic Duo: White's art director duo, Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler, played a crucial role in shaping the magazine's visual identity. Ansel and Feitler's tenure was historical as they were among the first female art directors. According to Ruth Ansel, in 1963, a significant turning point occurred when Marvin Israel had a heated dispute with the Nancy White, over a Avedon cover. This clash led to Marvin's dismissal, and unexpectedly, Ansel and Feitler found themselves as the art directors. The conflict arose from a cover shoot featuring a model, Danielle Weil, chosen by Marvin and Avedon due to her resemblance to Diana Vreeland. The unconventional choice, coupled with disagreements over the cover's suitability, ultimately resulted in Marvin's departure. Ansel suggests that Dick Avedon's influential position at the magazine played a role in convincing Nancy White and Diana Vreeland to give them a chance. Despite the challenges, Ansel expresses gratitude to the Harper's Bazaar team for taking a risk on two untested young girls. The details of this incident and the subsequent decision were never discussed with Avedon, leaving Ansel with regrets for not properly thanking him. (Source: System Magazine)
While Nancy White's editorship may not have the same flamboyant reputation as Vreeland's, her contributions to
Harper's Bazaar during a pivotal era deserve recognition. She nurtured talent, embraced emerging trends, and navigated
the changing landscape of fashion with grace and quiet confidence. Her story reminds us that sometimes, the most significant
contributions come from unexpected sources, leaving an indelible mark on the tapestry of fashion history.
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