revisiting this stunning collection only makes it sadder to look at the current state of fashion :|
hmm... by what metric, though? i think lee has several collections that could assume that titleIn many ways, I think this is the most accomplished collection of his entire career.
irere is brilliant, sans the redundant black sequence in the middle of the collecton. i'd say pretty much any collection from spring 98 to spring 01 could rank in his top five. voss, number 13, golden shower/untitled and eshu are, of course, the major standouts, while the overlook and eye are some of my more underrated favourites. i'd probably put voss and number 13 at the top of my list. his much earlier shows (dante, highland r*pe, the hunger, it's a jungle out there) are magnificent too, but they were mostly done on a hamstring budget, and are hence perhaps not the most accomplished on a strictly technical level. post-gucci group, supercalifragilisticexpialidocious is another great collection that's filled with more desirable and pragmatic separates, and lighter on the more usual showpieces. however, i do think that in some of his haute couture collections for givenchy, mcqueen achieved something so extraordinary. he was at the height of his creative and technical powers, and it very much shows in collections like the japanese garden (spring 98) and fall 1999 (it's criminal the only existing footage of this show online is such shoddy quality).^^^ These collections, with strong, distinctive, unique daywear— that’s as equally provocative designed as they are classically referential, showcases his immense creative talent alongside such a masterclass of studied, skilled and hard-earned dressmaker’s knowledge. That’s what transcends the mere provocateur to fashion visionary. “Irere” and “Deliverance” also come to mind that just like this collection, showcases his mastery of strong classic separates that as a whole, create completely new ways to understand fashion. Just like his men’s “The McQueensbury Rule” remains his strongest, most potent and severely relevant that’s remained Sarah’s blueprint for the best of her McQueen: Exquisite, bespoke, impossibly accomplished tailoring alongside fashion design. Costumes and ballgowns are such easy tricks to achieve next to the complex understanding of strong separates that work as well as a total look as they do as separates for the customer with a life, and not just for lending out at some red carpet.
i think his menswear was always overlooked by burton^^^ These collections, with strong, distinctive, unique daywear— that’s as equally provocative designed as they are classically referential, showcases his immense creative talent alongside such a masterclass of studied, skilled and hard-earned dressmaker’s knowledge. That’s what transcends the mere provocateur to fashion visionary. “Irere” and “Deliverance” also come to mind that just like this collection, showcases his mastery of strong classic separates that as a whole, create completely new ways to understand fashion. Just like his men’s “The McQueensbury Rule” remains his strongest, most potent and severely relevant that’s remained Sarah’s blueprint for the best of her McQueen: Exquisite, bespoke, impossibly accomplished tailoring alongside fashion design. Costumes and ballgowns are such easy tricks to achieve next to the complex understanding of strong separates that work as well as a total look as they do as separates for the customer with a life, and not just for lending out at some red carpet.
irere is brilliant, sans the redundant black sequence in the middle of the collecton. i'd say pretty much any collection from spring 98 to spring 01 could rank in his top five. voss, number 13, golden shower/untitled and eshu are, of course, the major standouts, while the overlook and eye are some of my more underrated favourites. i'd probably put voss and number 13 at the top of my list. his much earlier shows (dante, highland r*pe, the hunger, it's a jungle out there) are magnificent too, but they were mostly done on a hamstring budget, and are hence perhaps not the most accomplished on a strictly technical level. post-gucci group, supercalifragilisticexpialidocious is another great collection that's filled with more desirable and pragmatic separates, and lighter on the more usual showpieces. however, i do think that in some of his haute couture collections for givenchy, mcqueen achieved something so extraordinary. he was at the height of his creative and technical powers, and it very much shows in collections like the japanese garden (spring 98) and fall 1999 (it's criminal the only existing footage of this show online is such shoddy quality).