I guess it's a good thing it didn't happen today and we have the memory of these beautiful clothes. For me, the difference here is that this wasn't done as costumes or as to mock a group of people. It was fashion to wear and it was done with "love", if you will.
Yes, the climate was different back then, and I won't say it was better, per se, because I do think people being aware and sensitive to certain things is actually a good thing. But I do think there was something beautiful about this sort of homage.
I love this collection so much, Galliano is so great at creating pieces that inspire the models to move: dresses that dance with them, jackets to spin around in, furs to swathe yourself in…all very affected and cinematographic. I can totally understand his desire to do the movies he does for Margiela nowadays.
The last dress on Esther de Jong is one of my personal favorites from his period at Dior. It has a very strong historical influence but the effect of the silhouette is totally new.
No idea how to navigate this website but I came across this little blurb on Debbie's look called "Principessa Laudomia". Idk why they didn't mention the clear Miao inspiration of the necklaces.
As mentioned above, necklaces are inspired by Miao tribal necklaces from South-West China mixed with metallic version of Renaissance ruffs (sauce: google search)
Skirts are inspired by traditional 19th century Han Chinese qun skirt design (sauce: google search)
Outfits are inspired by Medici family (hence Medici Princesses) (sauce 1,sauce 2)
and these four looks were inspired by the portraits of Lucas Cranach the Elder (mainly the portraits from Uffizi, Florence) (sauce: google search)
but it seems that his ladies were not big fans of male gender??
For Sale on 1stDibs - ▪ Christian Dior Haute Couture 3-piece long bar suit ▪ Designed by John Galliano ▪ Sold by One of a Kind Archive ▪ 'A Voyage on the Diorient Express',
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