Share your thoughts on the... 2024 Met Gala
really? this one?? when the last ten years of his career are right there?Still IMO his weakest Couture collection at the time and probably one of his weakest ever.
Yes, I really don’t like a lot clothes in this collection. The daywear is solid but the rest…ew!really? this one?? when the last ten years of his career are right there?
his final show was horrible - a complete eyesore. unfortunately, his talent shrank as he grew older.
I wouldn’t say that his talent shrank as he grew older but I think his talent unfortunately was overshadowed by this kind of gimmicky-overtly nostalgic revisitation of his youth.^^^ If the face prints were omitted, along with the overstyling around the models’ faces, this offering would instantly improve by leaps and bounds. It’s the same problem with Riccardo’s last few years at Givenchy: The gimmicky prints overpowered the designs and cheapened everything. And sadly for Gaultier, cheap prints have come to defined his aesthetic for a whole new generation of fashion fans— along with the cone bras and tacky denim. This may be weak, but his finale was just so cheap cheap cheap. Nothing will come close to how awful it was to go out like that. If that final show was a pop group, it would be Steps at Eurovision.
galliano's camp always felt witty, self-aware and intellectual. it always worked, and even when it was 'vulgar' it was beautiful and just right. shows like empress sisi/zsa zsa gabor, hardcore romance, freud or fetish... they were camp af but the vision was just so outsized and the clothes were so delicious... pure fashion theatre, in the way that gaultier's last ten years failed to emulate.I like camp sometimes. I think Galliano did some collections that were totally camp but it was on the verge of ridiculousness. Gaultier is camp in a very franchouillard, grand public way. A kind of camp that distract from the clothes in a way.
I wouldn’t say that his talent shrank as he grew older but I think his talent unfortunately was overshadowed by this kind of gimmicky-overtly nostalgic revisitation of his youth.
His last show was « terrible » but in a way, I don’t mind it because it was his last show, a last presentation, a last celebration.
I like camp sometimes. I think Galliano did some collections that were totally camp but it was on the verge of ridiculousness. Gaultier is camp in a very franchouillard, grand public way. A kind of camp that distract from the clothes in a way.
What I think was great about his Couture was the nonchalant approach. It wasn’t the ceremonial, stuffy kind of Couture. It’s a pity that that attitude towards the clothes themselves was not backed up by a certain minimalism in the styling.
I think about his « Palace » collection. In spirit, the idea of Couture clothes made to go the club, dancing, movement as opposed to a dinner or an opera night is super modern. But as it was referential to the Palace, we were served with tacky wigs, questionable styling tricks.
The reason why the Haider collection was my favorite was because it evoked the kind of Couture JPG did when he first showed. Very serious, very formal but not dusty or stiff.
This FW2000 collection with the ugly Eiffel Tower prints on velvet is like a preview to the kind of tacky gimmicks he did 15/20 years later.
Regardless, he's still my favourite Français designer all time ( Lacroix and Nicolas in a lesser way since they didn't make menswear ). I have never been a hard fan of a British designers lol, even the Great Ones like Galliano, Lee, Vivienne,...
You know I love Tackiness. But I love tackiness when it’s intentional, obvious, pushed to the max even.LOL that damn Eiffel Tower has made its way into so many of his HC offerings. It is all very Hysteric Glamour. I guess a clientele can demand an alternative design…???
There’s always a good dose of tackiness, camp and kitsch in all of them; from Gaultier, Galliano, McQueen to Ghesquiere’s Vuitton— even Armani is marinating in premium tackiness these days. But even with all the tackiness that’s threaded throughout Gaultier's sensibility, the very best of his can never be diminished. He’s in a league of his own.. Even with his strongest and most classic outing that’s best exemplified by his years at Hermes, that undeniable air of camp, but one that’s so refined a caricature of French bourgeoisie, was firmly tongue-in-cheek and not customey— just done so well, with not an image of the Eiffel Tower, Breton stripes, and tattoo print in sight, thank goodness. But his last decade was back to his Eurotrash show sensibilities and unfortunately, that’s what’s come to define his brand, his image and more tragically, his legacy.
HIs brand regressing back to his all-out campy eurotrash costume side must be a strategy to keep up and remain relevant with the current fashion times, of which is sadly the tackiest of any fashion era. When the likes of Harris Reed and Daniel Roseberry camp and drag sensibilities are celebrated as high fashion, it’s no wonder Gaultier’s tackier side is taking over in that eternal ego-stroking of “I did it first!” (….and he really did do it first…). I just wished his chosen guest designer for his HC were interesting and stronger candidates, instead of who's on trend.
FW2000 was really an odd season but I think that 2000 was an odd year all around for fashion because there was a need, an expectation for designers to express strong statements regarding what the new milleniumAlso have to keep in mind that this was an odd season of couture shows. Not entirely bad, but just very in their bubble. McQueen's "House Party" show for Givenchy, Chanel's 80s Weimer Jetson chic courtesy of Karl, Dior's Eyes Wide Shut show, with Versace giving a very LA languid collection... Odd ideas as the turn of the millennium was in swing and figuring out how to navigate it.
Completely agree. Gaultier's Hermes is untouchable, for me.You know that I love his work for Hermes. The balance between the relevancy of his RTW at Hermes and the fantasy of his Couture was perfect.
JPG, maybe because he is a very popular figure, tends to go for very Grand public references, as someone who can embrace a theme. Because Hermes’s customers were older, his work took another dimension and gained in maturity.
There was no 80’s shoulders at Hermes! And god knows how good his tailoring was there. And he took the dressmaking at another level. I remember lace dresses that were fantastic. He is still imo the best designer who took the helm of Hermes.
I know there’s a mythology around Margiela but it was maybe too pragmatic for my taste. Gaultier added fun and fantasy to his pragmatism…Even when he went back to his old ways with collections themed around Tennis lol.