Fashion Merry-Go-Round Series: 1-More changes at Gucci and Balenciaga
Astrid Wendlandt
31/03/24
NOT GOING ANYWHERE
Back on the fashion front, more details have emerged this week about what is going on at Gucci. Key staff have left or are in the process of leaving, as they realize that Sabato lacks what it takes to help the brand regain its authority and desirability, Miss Tweed has learned. "No-one can imagine to what extent it's chaos," one person who left Gucci a few weeks ago said. "People don't trust Sabato any longer because they understand that his vision is not strong enough. After three shows, it's clear that the brand is not going anywhere. It lacks a strong point of view."
A common complaint about De Sarno is that he gets lost in details, for example micro-managing how the brand communicates on social networks when he should be focusing on its strategic vision. He does not have the strength and depth of Michele. Also, since he arrived, he has been focusing on marketing Gucci's Jackie handbag. He has not come up yet with a strong new collection of leather goods.
Miss Tweed reported last week about how people complained internally that De Sarno was not surrounded by people with enough experience and talent, especially in areas such as image, marketing and merchandising.
As reported, Gucci's Chief Marketing Officer Jonathan Kiman is looking for another job and Lila Staab, in charge of celebrities, is soon to leave. Other key managers are halfway out the door. These include Maria Cristina Lomanto, in charge of merchandising, one senior source close to the brand said. Another is Cedric Murac, whom Gucci asked to resign from Calvin Klein. He moved to Milan to join the brand in June 2023 as senior vice-president, global brand image and content. Murac was supposed to manage Gucci's image, but in practice, that job is being fulfilled by De Sarno's art director, Ricardo Zanola. Hence Murac is not doing the job for which he was hired and has been relegated to handle things such as packaging. "He's planning his exit as well," a source close to the brand said. Kiman, Staab and Murac did not reply to requests for comment.
Zanola is a freelancer but works exclusively for Gucci now, industry sources said. De Sarno likes him, but other people value less his input, staff say.
A case in point: images for advertising campaigns regularly arrive later than agreed, creating stress and chaos internally. "There is a lack of discipline," one person who worked with Zanola and De Sarno said.
As Miss Tweed reported last week, Stefano Cantino, in charge of communications and events at Louis Vuitton, is set to take a bigger and more operational role at Gucci. His farewell party is scheduled for the end of April. Cantino is due to start at Gucci in May. He will look after marketing, merchandising and relations with clients. Astonishingly, Louis Vuitton is letting him go without taking any gardening leave. The French luxury brand is known for being strict about enforcing the non-competition clauses it includes in contracts. These prevent someone from working for another brand for up to a year. "He must have negotiated his exit well" several people close to the matter said. Cantino did not reply to a voice message from Miss Tweed.
There is speculation that Alessandro Valenti, Louis Vuitton's EMEA president, could also join Gucci after nine years at the leather goods specialist. Valenti would oversee Gucci's retail network. One source said he had already moved to Milan. Valenti and LVMH did not reply to requests for comment. If he joins Gucci, together with Cantino, the two men are going to find a company with a decimated leadership, sources close to the brand say.
Zanola is a freelancer but works exclusively for Gucci now, industry sources said. De Sarno likes him, but other people value less his input, staff say.
A case in point: images for advertising campaigns regularly arrive later than agreed, creating stress and chaos internally. "There is a lack of discipline," one person who worked with Zanola and De Sarno said.
As Miss Tweed reported last week, Stefano Cantino, in charge of communications and events at Louis Vuitton, is set to take a bigger and more operational role at Gucci. His farewell party is scheduled for the end of April. Cantino is due to start at Gucci in May. He will look after marketing, merchandising and relations with clients. Astonishingly, Louis Vuitton is letting him go without taking any gardening leave. The French luxury brand is known for being strict about enforcing the non-competition clauses it includes in contracts. These prevent someone from working for another brand for up to a year. "He must have negotiated his exit well," several people close to the matter said. Cantino did not reply to a voice message from Miss Tweed.
There is speculation that Alessandro Valenti, Louis Vuitton's EMEA president, could also join Gucci after nine years at the leather goods specialist. Valenti would oversee Gucci's retail network. One source said he had already moved to Milan. Valenti and LVMH did not reply to requests for comment. If he joins Gucci, together with Cantino, the two men are going to find a company with a decimated leadership, sources close to the brand say.
Staff say they do not see Gucci CEO Jean-François Palus very often. He is regarded as a great cost-cutter but communicates little about strategy. Palus is said to be preparing a major redundancy plan. It is not clear how long he will stay at Gucci. He has left Kering's board of directors. This allows him to depart whenever he chooses. Arguably, he stilli has a lot on his plate, particularly if he and François-Henri Pinault finally come to the conclusion that De Sarno was not the right designer for Gucci. The sooner they reach that point, the quicker they can find alternative solutions and mend the brand. Pinault has repeatedly said his ambition was to "elevate" Gucci. Now he needs to move fast to stop it spiraling down.
With Michele joining Valentino, a label in which Kering bought a 30-percent stake last year, could Piccioli join Gucci? This is not the only option he may consider, as Miss Tweed will explain next week. De Sarno worked with Piccioli as head of ready-to-wear at Valentino before joining Gucci in May last year. To be continued ...
(Edited by Andrew Dobbie, photo montage by Dimka)
©Copyright Miss Tweed.