LVMH Announce the New LVMH Prize for Young Designers

[Marc10]

Delphine Arnault and LVMH Announce the New LVMH Prize for Young Designers

Imagine that you’re a young designer and you not only have the opportunity to win a 300,000 euro investment in your business but also to have your work judged by a panel that includes Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci, Humberto Leon, and Carol Lim. That extraordinary prospect is about to come true, thanks to LVMH.

The luxury group today announced the creation of a new annual LVMH Prize. Open to any designer under 40 who has produced two commercially available collections of women’s and/or men’s ready-to-wear, the prize comes with a 300,000 euro grant and a year of mentorship. (Three 10,000 euro prizes will be awarded to current or recent fashion-school students, along with a year’s employment at an LVMH brand.) Unlike many of the existing fashion prizes—from the ANDAM in France to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in the U.S.—the LVMH Prize is open to designers the world over, without restrictions for nationality or residence. “One of our priorities has always been creativity,” says Delphine Arnault (left), the executive vice president of Louis Vuitton, and one of the executives spearheading the new prize initiative. “We think, Who better than our designers to elect the designer of tomorrow?”

Applicants submit their work online, via the new LVMHprize.com, which will be accepting applications today through February 2, 2014. (Spectators can also comment on submissions and share favorites via social media.) From the applicant pool, an LVMH team will select thirty designers to send to Paris during fashion week in March to show their collections in a group showroom. From there, a quorum of industry experts, ranging from stylists to editors to retailers, will vote for the top ten, who will then go before the judging panel. (In addition to the designers above, creative directors of the LVMH labels Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Céline, Givenchy, and Kenzo, respectively, the panel will include Arnault; Pierre-Yves Roussel, chairman and CEO of LVMH’s Fashion Group; and Bernard Claverie, LVMH’s head of corporate philanthropy.) Speaking by phone from Paris, Arnault answered a few questions about the new prize.

How did you select the preconditions for application—that designers must be under 40 years old and have produced two collections?
Under 40, because it’s a good age! I know that in the States, you’re not supposed to talk about age, but in Europe, it’s fine. I’m 38, so I think that 40 is a good age, non?

To have a minimum of two collections, we debated a lot on that. We spoke to Riccardo [Tisci], and he said, I would have never been selected on your list, because I only presented one collection! He only did one collection, and then he went directly to Givenchy. It’s quite hard, but you have to find a rule. At the beginning, we had more collections than two, but we think that two is a good number…. There are a lot of people who have a lot of talent, and then they don’t have enough financial support to develop it longer than two or three collections.

And why did you decide to hold the competition online?
What we hope by having this online application is to find amazing talents that no one knows. We want to find new designers…. Everyone is online, and everyone thinks like that. It’s easy for everyone to apply online. And the online part in fashion is very important, and becoming increasingly important.

What was the response of the artistic directors of the group when you asked them to sit on the judging panel?
They were very enthusiastic. Everyone said yes immediately—they didn’t even think. Most of them are really interested in the next generation and helping the next generation. And for us, the LVMH group, as the leader of our sector, it’s our responsibility to discover talent and to help them grow.

You personally have a long history of mentoring and supporting emerging designers. Was this an official part of your mandate at LVMH?
It wasn’t really official, but it’s always something that’s interested me a lot. When I was traveling—even when I was traveling not necessarily for work—I was always meeting some designers in New York and L.A. and wherever I went. I feel that creativity is at the center of our group, and it’s extremely important to know the designers [of] the future, the young ones.

LVMH has recently been investing in new designers. Do you see the prize as an incubator for potential future investments?
No, we really see this as a more philanthropic commitment. Recently, we’ve invested in young talent, but we’ve always promoted young talent. Marc Jacobs, when we invested in his company in 1998, the turnover was $20 million. It’s one of the biggest successes of the last fifteen years—now it’s $1 billion. Riccardo Tisci, when he arrived at Givenchy, he was 28. Now he’s 38. He’s been at Givenchy for ten years. We’ve just named Jonathan Anderson at Loewe.

Why was it important to you to make the competition open to menswear designers as well as womenswear?

What we want to honor is talent…. You can start in menswear, continue in womenswear. Raf [Simons], he started in men’s, for example.

This first year, the prize is only on ready-to-wear, but we will see how it goes and learn by doing. Maybe in the next years we’ll open it to other categories, like accessories.

style

 

[Scott]

i'm a bit wary of this enedeavour coming from the same minds of a corporation who is partly responsible for helping shut down a lot small and independent designers,never mind how much they enjoy snapping up young talents for the big mcfashion world instead of allowing them to grow as authentic independent businesses.

 

[Zazie]

i'm a bit wary of this enedeavour coming from the same minds of a corporation who is partly responsible for helping shut down a lot small and independent designers,never mind how much they enjoy snapping up young talents for the big mcfashion world instead of allowing them to grow as authentic independent businesses.

Oh, it's to see which talent they can snap up to make their business and profit grow more obscenely.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

i'm a bit wary of this enedeavour coming from the same minds of a corporation who is partly responsible for helping shut down a lot small and independent designers,never mind how much they enjoy snapping up young talents for the big mcfashion world instead of allowing them to grow as authentic independent businesses.

McFashion. That is my new word.

 

[Marc10]

EXCLUSIVE: LVMH Announces Its Twelve Fashion Prize Finalists



The panel of experts has spoken, the votes are in, and today we can announce the twelve talents who will move on to the final round of the heated LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition. Atto by Julien Dossena, CG by Chris Gelinas, Gabriele Colangelo, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, Jacquemus by Simon Porte Jacquemus, Miuniku by Nikita and Tina Sutradhar, Thomas Tait, Tillmann Lauterbach, Tim Coppens, Simone Rocha, Suno by Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, and Vika Gazinskaya will go head-to-head for the award’s 300,000 euro grant. A slideshow of the designers’ looks is available here.

But wait, you might be thinking. Weren’t there only supposed to be ten finalists? Yes, but LVMH’s team of forty industry insiders simply could not decide after surveying the work of the competition’s thirty semifinalists during an event at Paris fashion week. “It’s so hard,” offered Louis Vuitton’s executive vice president Delphine Arnault, who has been spearheading the initiative. “When we compiled the votes, four designers all had the same amount, so we let twelve in. I think it’s good.” We’re sure the finalists would agree.

The dozen men’s and womenswear designers, who hail from round the globe, will each have fifteen minutes to present their Fall ’14 collections at the LVMH headquarters in May. Judges including Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, and others will consider their efforts, and later choose a winner. “All the [LVMH Prize] designers are really enthusiastic,” offered Arnault. “I’m sure the contestants are nervous, but at the same time, it’s an amazing opportunity to meet all these people.” In a room filled with powerhouses like that, we’d be nervous, too, but the final twelve can take solace in the fact that at least one prestigious juror has been in their shoes. “Karl [Lagerfeld] started his career after winning a prize, but he told me there were 200,000 applicants, not 1,200 as we’ve had,” relayed Arnault. “Karl even had to sit and draw in front of the judges to prove that someone else hadn’t done his sketches for him.” As for the eighteen semifinalists who didn’t make the cut, they can take solace in the fact that they’re eligible to apply again next year. “I’m sure they must be very disappointed, but I hope they see it as an opportunity. And I hope we helped them to make some key connections in the industry.”

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[Scott]

eh…a little underwhelming considering the unprecedented amount of more interesting talent they could have chose from. lena lumelsky was in the mix initially and i think her work is aeons stronger than somebody like vika gazinskaya.

 

[Marc10]

The atmosphere at the LVMH headquarters was electric this afternoon, as reporters, photographers, finalists, jury members, and designers all mingled before the big reveal of the inaugural LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers winner. London-based Canadian designer Thomas Tait, who won the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize back in 2010, came out on top. “I was shocked,” he told us while sitting next to his gilded trophy. “I thought, Did that just happen?” Tait is now looking at 300,000 euros of financial support and a year’s worth of business mentoring and production advice, and naturally we were curious as to his next move. “A nice dinner, a good night’s sleep, and I need to call my mom and dad,” he said. But after that, he might take another step toward that handbag he’s been thinking about. Menswear, though, is “not such an emergency.”

The eleven runners-up (formerly twelve, but Julien Dossena shuttered his line Atto to focus on his work at Paco Rabanne) were not forgotten—and they were awarded for their efforts. After taking the podium, LVMH’s Delphine Arnault first presented three students, Flavien Juan Nuñez, Peter Do, and Teruhiro Hasegawa, with 10,000-euro grants plus one-year internships with Dior, Céline, and Givenchy, respectively. Then, Arnault announced that the jury, which included designers Karl Lagerfeld, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Humberto Leon, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, and Riccardo Tisci, had decided to create a special prize of 100,000 euros each for two runners-up. Those honorees were Shayne Olivier of Hood by Air and Indian sisters Tina and Nikita Sutradhar of Miuniku. Currently based in Mumbai, the latter are moving their camp to London next year, with plans to show at London fashion week.

Even those who walked away without a hefty purse were grateful. “It’s already been incredible in terms of exposure and meeting people—it’s like you win right out of the gate,” mused finalist Chris Gelinas. When asked about the final presentation, in which each designer, accompanied by two models, got ten minutes in front of the jury, he replied, “It felt a little like the Last Supper—all these important people lined up at one long table. I remember thinking, What did I just say to Karl Lagerfeld?“

“I really appreciated the very different personalities and expressions. It was very interesting,” said jury member Ghesquière. “They all really have a vision, a story to tell, an expression, and a signature. That’s formidable. As for the jury, there was a real camaraderie,” he added, before slipping out of the room and back to work. Lagerfeld noted that the best part of the process was “having everyone all together. We never see each other because we’re working. But I hate that.” Of the final decision, he said, “I want everybody to win, but that’s not possible.”

“I am thrilled. It was so interesting and original. All eleven candidates were of such excellent quality; each had their style,” offered Arnault. “They are tomorrow’s great talents.” Asked if she thought the contest would draw even more than this year’s 1,221 candidatures, she replied, “I hope so!”

style.com

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I think Thomas Tait is a very worthy winner, seeing past some construction issues, his ideas are beautiful and quite unique.
He uses his understanding of fabric to surprise which can only be seen in motion, for example, structured jackets in rather fluid (or "nervous" as he wonderfully describes them) fabrics. His cutting and attention to detail and movement of the garment set him apart and really show his potential to be a great designer.
Unlike his peer Jonathan Anderson, I believe Thomas Tait will be worthy of every available hype.

 

[fashionista-ta]

i'm a bit wary of this enedeavour coming from the same minds of a corporation who is partly responsible for helping shut down a lot small and independent designers,never mind how much they enjoy snapping up young talents for the big mcfashion world instead of allowing them to grow as authentic independent businesses.

Indeed. "Walk into my parlor," said the spider ...

PS Maybe there should've been a design competition for the award itself?

 

[Phuel]

If you're a new designer, support from such a titan-- or tyrant, as LVMH is a better alternative than going at it on your own. Unless they have the advantage of independent wealth, not only do new designers need to come up with impossibly high rates for PR firms and to kickstart their business, and compete with other designers, but they have to worry about having their designs and design ideas stolen by fashion editors and stylists if they're on their own. Having the support, or protection of LVMH-- to whatever capacity, at least affords these new designers some much needed publicity so these thieves within the industry will at least think twice before stealing their ideas.

We can criticize LVMH all we want for creating something that in all likeliness amounts to their own gain, but what other alternative support with such a high level of visibility (and prestige) are there for these designers?

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ There's the CFDA/Vogue prize as well ...


I'm not criticizing them, simply pointing out the Faustian aspect.

 

[Fatalefashion]

I love the work of Thomas, and Jacquemus, was a great choice.

 

[Phuel]

^ There's the CFDA/Vogue prize as well ...


I'm not criticizing them, simply pointing out the Faustian aspect.

Jeez... If I were a new designer, I would definitely prefer this competition to the CFDA anytime-- already looks to be the much more prestigious of the two evils to me...

I didn't mean to give the impression I was directing my comment at you fashionista-ta-- I just mean it in a general sense. We should be critical of the huge corporations and their self-serving motives. But new designers need to be proactive, adopt some business sense, and learn to take advantage of these opportunities and use them for their own benefit as well.

If you want to be a delicate flower that needs to be carefully nurtured and sheltered from the ruthlessness of the fashion industry, than best to avoid the big corporations.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ That may be true ... this one is certainly more European. But with CFDA you're dealing more with the industry as a whole ... with this prize, you're dealing with a single corporation.

 

[TheoG]

Marques'Almeida Wins the LVMH Prize

’s official! Marques'Almeida is the 2015 winner of the LVMH Prize. After deliberation by the judges—Delphine Arnault, Nicolas Ghesquière, Karl Lagerfeld, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, Riccardo Tisci, Marc Jacobs, Jonathan Anderson, Carol Lim, Humberto Leon, Jean-Paul Claverie, and Pierre-Yves Roussel—Marques'Almeida was presented the LVMH Prize by actress Natalie Portman this morning at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. The pair will receive 30,000 euros in addition to a year-long mentorship from the LVMH Group spannung all areas of the business, from production to press.

“Thank you very much. This is a huge shock and a huge honor,” began Marta Marques from the podium after winning the award. “We feel absolutely blessed.” This marks the first major prize for the house, which was established in 2011 after Marques and her design partner, Paulo Almeida, graduated from Central Saint Martins. The line is famous for its denim pieces—a favorite among the street-style set—and has recently been expanding into new textiles and accessories. (You may have spied its Fall 2015 brocades on the party circuit already.)

Also honored at the ceremony was Jacquemus, which won an unplanned special prize from the jury. The other semifinalists were Arthur Arbesser, Craig Green, Faustine Steinmetz, Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, and Vetements.

style.com

 

[sixtdaily]

LVMH Prize, 2016 Edition

Finalists: AALTO / ALYX / BRANDON MAXWELL / FACETASM / KOCHE / VEJAS / WALES BONNER / Y/PROJECT

Winner: Grace Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2014. Her graduate collection Afrique won the L’Oréal Professionnel Talent Award, her dissertation Black on Black achieved the Dean’s personal commendation. Wales Bonner debuted Ebonics A/W 15 with Fashion East at London Collections: Men to critical acclaim. After her first season, she was invited to the V&A’s prestigious Fashion in Motion programme. Her work explores representations of black male sexuality and identity. Informed by broad research which encompasses critical theory, composition, literature, and historical sources, Wales Bonner attempts to explore the notion of luxury via a hybrid of European and African approaches.
In 2015 Wales Bonner was awarded Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards. She also performed in the Serpentine Marathon curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist and realised the first two volumes of her bi-annual publication Everythings for Real with Ditto Press. Wales Bonner designs contemporary menswear and womenswear to international stockists including Matches, LNCC, Joyce, SSense and 10 Corso Como.

FW 16 Collection



lvmhprize.com

 

[sixtdaily]

FW 16 (end)



SS16 Collection



lvmhprize.com