Nicolas Ghesquière to Launch LVMH-Financed Fashion Brand

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LVMH to finance Nicolas Ghesquière’s own fashion brand
By Astrid Wendlandt

January 30, 2019


Luxury goods powerhouse LVMH has agreed to finance the creation and launch of designer Nicolas Ghesquière’s own fashion brand, sources close to the matter have told FashionNetwork.com.


The main driving force behind the project is Delphine Arnault, daughter of LVMH boss Bernard Arnault and executive vice president of Louis Vuitton. Delphine Arnault is a great fan of Ghesquière’s work. In tandem with CEO Michael Burke, Delphine hired him in 2013 after he left Balenciaga to head womenswear at Louis Vuitton.

Ghesquière renewed his contract with Louis Vuitton last year and the development of own his eponymous fashion brand was part of the deal, sources have said. The precise timing of the launch is not yet known internally but the first details are expected to emerge in the course of the year, they said. The new fashion house will be based in Paris.

“Delphine (Arnault) is very close to Nicolas and she is the main person behind that project,” one of the sources said. Delphine Arnault, who was previously Dior's deputy managing director, this year became the first of Bernard Arnault's five children to join LVMH's executive committee.

Ghesquière has told the media several times that he planned to launch his own fashion brand but he has kept mum about the timing and how it would be financed. LVMH has a history of backing the development of fashion brands led by designers who work for the group.

Examples include Marc Jacobs, who spearheaded Louis Vuitton’s womenswear from 1997 to 2013; and Michael Kors, who designed for Celine and left in 2003 to concentrate on his own New York brand. LVMH subsequently sold its stake in Kors, later regretting exiting too soon when Kors went public in 2011, turning that designer into a billionaire. Latterly, LVMH has invested in JW Anderson, the Ulster-born talent who launched his own label in 2008 and has headed Loewe womenswear since 2013.

On Tuesday, LVMH posted forecast-beating annual results, lifting its shares more than 5 percent. The group’s fashion and leather goods division, led by Louis Vuitton, revealed a 17 percent jump in fourth-quarter sales, defying concerns about a slowdown in demand in China and lost income in France due to the 'yellow vest' protests. Bernard Arnault said momentum had remained the same in January before the all-important Chinese New Year shopping period.

Bernard Arnault added that Louis Vuitton’s sales last year reached more than 10 billion euros, marking one of the first times in years that he has publicly disclosed the size the brand’s revenues. He said Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, the cosmetics brand launched by the singer in 2016, was a phenomenal success, with sales last year reaching nearly 500 million euros.

Asked if Rihanna would branch out into fashion and launch a new luxury brand backed by LVMH, he said: “It is an incredible success so it is true that it could give us ideas but for the moment, nothing has been finalized yet.”

LVMH did not reply to requests for comment for this article, nor did Louis Vuitton and Nicolas Ghesquière.
fashionnetwork.com
 
Can´t wait for his debut collection! But please...I want his work to be back like it was in Balenciaga. No more boring "wardrobe for my friends" like in Vuitton, for god´s sake!!

I want avant-garde again! I wanna see unexpected and unpredictable collections full of interesting concepts and desirable clothes once again!

100059028.jpg
vogue.com
 
Well done Nicolas, im so happy and proud of you! I think that this was always his endgame, so I cant wait to see what he is planning. Hope he bring a brand totally focused on clothes, not that I don't wanna to see bags and stuff, but it would be so good to see him working like he used to before LV, its gonna be interesting to see the 'old Nicolas' using the huge amount of knowledge that he acquired during this almost a decade in a super big brand.

It makes sense now why he didn't left LV, they need each other, however I still want to him to leave the brand eventually.
 
Can´t wait for his debut collection! But please...I want his work to be back like it was in Balenciaga. No more boring "wardrobe for my friends" like in Vuitton, for god´s sake!!

I want avant-garde again! I wanna see unexpected and unpredictable collections full of interesting concepts and desirable clothes once again!

100059028.jpg
vogue.com

I was thinking about that...
His Balenciaga looks very « normal » today compared to the very complicated, overstyled stuff he is doing at Vuitton.

I don’t know if I want him to deliver high concept collections like FW10. I like « commercial », effortless Nicolas.

I suspect that he might include some of his archives stuff to build a wardrobe like he did with the Capsule at Balenciaga.
I guess that like Tom Ford, he build his own archives (even if MAS closet might be an archive on it own).

I just hope that Pierre Hardy does the shoes.
Nicolas might eventually leave Vuitton in 4 years.

I guess my dream of Nicolas being a contender for Chanel is dead.
We can forget Nicolas and Hedi already for the job.
 
^Yes I would like to see he starts with stuff like Balenciaga Le Dix first...and no Marie Amelie Sauve pleasssssssssssse
 
I am almost sure that whatever Nicolas does for his own brand is going to be very tame and very wearable; there just isn't a chance that he is going to do something even close to what he did at Balenciaga.

The best strategy for an "emerging" brand of an already experienced and well-known designer would be to establish the house codes, so I expect a ton of repetitions and many basic pieces during the first few seasons. I just hope it doesn't look like what he is already doing at Vuitton but at a more accessible price, although today's climate pretty much asks for that.
 
I love NG’s work at Balenciaga like everybody else , but never connected with his collections at LV, neither visually nor as a client . and i’ve come to the conclusion that his days as an incredible fashion force might be over.

Also. the idea of creative and forward looking collections is not possible in any of the big groups anymore as it’s all about the bottom line . I’m not sure a Collection like his Balenciaga could exist as long as it did in today’s climate. And his Louis Vuitton only exists because of it being Louis Vuitton .. honestly has anybody ever seen the collection outside the LV stores , and even there it’s only minimal quantities.
 
I was thinking about that...
His Balenciaga looks very « normal » today compared to the very complicated, overstyled stuff he is doing at Vuitton.

I don’t know if I want him to deliver high concept collections like FW10. I like « commercial », effortless Nicolas.

I suspect that he might include some of his archives stuff to build a wardrobe like he did with the Capsule at Balenciaga.
I guess that like Tom Ford, he build his own archives (even if MAS closet might be an archive on it own).

I just hope that Pierre Hardy does the shoes.
Nicolas might eventually leave Vuitton in 4 years.

I guess my dream of Nicolas being a contender for Chanel is dead.
We can forget Nicolas and Hedi already for the job.

I am going to be realistic: his "heydays" from Balenciaga are gone. I expect something in the same line as LV.

It would be also nice to see a collection in the minimalistic tone he had at his first years at Balenciaga (1998-2000), a toned-down wearable avant-garde.

I just hope he doesn´t go the easy route here, just tossing down basic clothes with his name splashed all over them...but seeing the current state of this industry, it wouldn´t surprise me at all if this happens.
Bad and sad times for avant-garde...:cry:

About Chanel, the only designer I would be VERY excited to see as Lagerfeld´s replacement is Phoebe Philo (but I know it´s not possible, because she is focused on her family; and Chanel means STRESS in capitals).
Another more realistic option could be Alber Elbaz.
But once again, seeing the state of the industry, the Wertheimers will probably hire Virginie Viard...the Chanel version for Burton/Chiuri/Keller.

God, this industry sucks sooo much!! :(
 
Does that mean he's leaving LV? Can I celebrate?
 
^^
His contract expires in 4 years so, you must wait a little bit before popping your Champagne!

I am going to be realistic: his "heydays" from Balenciaga are gone. I expect something in the same line as LV.

It would be also nice to see a collection in the minimalistic tone he had at his first years at Balenciaga (1998-2000), a toned-down wearable avant-garde.

I just hope he doesn´t go the easy route here, just tossing down basic clothes with his name splashed all over them...but seeing the current state of this industry, it wouldn´t surprise me at all if this happens.
Bad and sad times for avant-garde...:cry:

About Chanel, the only designer I would be VERY excited to see as Lagerfeld´s replacement is Phoebe Philo (but I know it´s not possible, because she is focused on her family; and Chanel means STRESS in capitals).
Another more realistic option could be Alber Elbaz.
But once again, seeing the state of the industry, the Wertheimers will probably hire Virginie Viard...the Chanel version for Burton/Chiuri/Keller.

God, this industry sucks sooo much!! :(

The question is "what is avant-garde" in 2018?

I think that having his own brand will be a perfect way for him to connect with his core customers, the ones who used to buy Balenciaga.

I own some of his Vuitton pieces but truth to be told, the "Vuitton" aspect doesn't really appeal to me. There are some very cute pieces and it's not that expensive but god, i hate obvious, visible branding and it can be a turn off.

I think that like Riccardo, Alber and stuff, he has a vocabulary. It can be a challenge.
I'm always positive because he is talented and new decade, means new aspirations...I hope!

No! No Alber! I think that Alber doesn't have the versatility that i expect for someone doing Chanel. Obviously, the new designer won't be there for 30 years.
I would rather see him at Dior than Chanel...

Yes, Phoebe is still on my list but tbh, Chanel might be the less stressful brand out of all the big brands. The Weirthemers are not even living in France.
If the next designer has as much freedom that Karl, he will be very happy...

But yes, i can totally see Virginie being a transition-designer.

Overall, i'm just happy that Hedi is out!
 
You should all forget to see Alber at any house like...forever.
 
and of course his team will be the same people in their late 30s, early 40s, mid 50s, doing the same thing for Nicolas but.. unadulterated Nicolas. Totally different and worth a new label, because I bet you missed them!

What a great time to graduate from design school only to find out you can't have the opportunities of 25 year-old Nicolas anymore because 47 year-old Nicolas and his 8 other peers are attached like goddamn crustaceans to the little there is and even the little of what could be (investment in new labels).
 
Considering how commercial fashion is right now, imo perhaps the most commercial it's ever been, I really doubt we will be seeing Balenciaga-level fashion. It will be like JWA/Loewe. There will still be parallels. And considering the house will still be owned by LVMH makes it worse. I've made peace with him. There's too much commerce attached to everything he's currently doing in order for raw creativity to prosper as it did aT Balenciaga.

More minidresses for MAS.
 
What a great time to graduate from design school only to find out you can't have the opportunities of 25 year-old Nicolas anymore because 47 year-old Nicolas and his 8 other peers are attached like goddamn crustaceans to the little there is and even the little of what could be (investment in new labels).

Not necessarly to defend Nicolas but don’t you think that the problem today in fashion is the « expected » trajectory of a student from a design school.
The sad thing about Young designers from Fashion schools is that the majority of them don’t have fresh ideas and expect to be at the same level as someone like Nicolas, who is autodidact and who started at 18.

What I want from fashion is to be able, in the future to create careers similar to Nicolas. I would love for the next big designer to not come from a very expensive school and to have the time to explore his creativity before being eaten by the system.

I think that designers like Nicolas are survivors. His glory days are over but is he over yet? No!

I feel like people coming from fashion schools, even more the very expensive and prestigious ones, are already eaten by the system.

I would rather have an « old me » by Nicolas than an « old Nicolas » by someone else....
There are too much Demnas out there.

I would love from a Japanese designer to be at the helm of one of those fashion house but executives are afraid because they know it will be very disruptive. And i’m not talking about Marketing tactics à la « Black American designer at LV ».
 

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