Models' Showlists ... how do the shows rank?

[Chalice]

Is there a thread that rates all the shows by importance?

I just read in Julia Dunstall's thread that someone said they were disappointed she hadn't been in the important shows this time. I thought she had been in a LOT of shows.

How do we know how important or minor each show is?

from Callidora:

I rate shows on a scale of 1-5.
5 pts. (e.g. Marc Jacobs, Prada, Dior)
4 pts. (e.g. Strenesse, DSquared, Dries Van Noten)
3 pts. (e.g. Behnaz Sarafpour, Salvatore Ferragamo, Rick Owens)
2 pts. (e.g. Lacoste, Philosophy, AF Vandevorst)
1 pt. (e.g. Temperley, Emporio Armani, Veronique Branquinho)

These are the points a model earns for walking in each show.

Now if a model opens a show, she gets 4x the points so 20pts for opening Marc Jacobs, 16 pts. for opening Dries, 12 pts. for opening Ferragamo, etc.

If she closes a show, she gets double the points, e.g. 10 pts. for closing Dior, 8 pts. for closing DSquared, 6 pts. for closing Rick Owens, etc.

I make a list at the beginning of each fashion week of the shows I will score and the number of points each show will earn. I don't score every single show, only the designers that have wider recognition. I add a show if I know all the models in the show, because hot models add credibility to a smaller name show.

 

[smokebreak]

Umm.. there's no actual rating system for shows. There's good shows, decent shows, okay shows, money job shows and whatever else in between all of it. The above is just one person's way of rating and evaluating how well they think models did. A show can be lower name until it puts out great ratings overall in the industry and it can be the next hot show the following season.
Also, what the consumer/fashion interested public deems as best isn't exactly what clients and people on the inside of the modeling world deem as the best. I could list a dozen shows clients would peek their ears to that most consumers interested in age old commercial lines wouldn't recognize.
Rating systems just aren't credible.

 

[Rochas]

Just out of curiousity smokebreak, which shows would you classify as being the "money job" shows?

 

[smokebreak]

Whichever ones pay money? lol
Well, depends. All sorts of shows pay a lot but typically those that aren't done for prestige the agency will just say "it's a money job" and it can either be an unheard of show that's starting out and is wanting a decent image or an okay show, not done for prestige I mean, that just felt like directly booking and paying for girls they wanted instead of dealing with castings -and it's generally not always the same every season so when you see a top girl doing a show you've never heard of it's because it was a money job.
Happens a lot also with shows that aren't even on the fashion week schedule list which most wouldn't typically see or hear anything about as well.

 

[smartarse]

Umm.. there's no actual rating system for shows. There's good shows, decent shows, okay shows, money job shows and whatever else in between all of it. The above is just one person's way of rating and evaluating how well they think models did. A show can be lower name until it puts out great ratings overall in the industry and it can be the next hot show the following season.
Also, what the consumer/fashion interested public deems as best isn't exactly what clients and people on the inside of the modeling world deem as the best. I could list a dozen shows clients would peek their ears to that most consumers interested in age old commercial lines wouldn't recognize.
Rating systems just aren't credible.

the above post is correct. However, if the likes of style.com or WWD "rates a show" or the audience is asked, "how did you rate XYZ's line this season?" [when a fashion commentator asks some people who've just seen a designer's show their opinion] is basically asking how XYZ's line faired with last years. It's only for journalism's sake. IMO.

 

[Chalice]

Rank the Shows

Now that show season is over for the fall, how do we determine how some of the models did?

So, (for example) how do you compare a model who went to show season and did (15 shows

London:
Armand Basi
Danielle Scutt
Paul Smith
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Milan:[/FONT]
Alberta Ferretti
Antonio Marras
Belstaff
Just Cavalli
Luisa Beccaria
Pin-Up Stars
Valentin Yudashkin
Paris:
Akris
Barbara Bui
Christian Lacroix
Elie Saab
Michel Klein

with a model who did (ten shows

New York:
Eventide
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Paris:
Issey Miyake
Jean Paul Gaultier
Leonard
Mannish Arora
Veronique Leroy
Yohji Yamamoto
Zucca

Are the 15 shows better than the 10 shows?

Just in a general way it would be useful to see a show ranking that divides them into categories according to their usefulness for a model's career. (See previous quote from Callidora.)

It costs a lot to follow the show season through these expensive cities. What does it take to make it worthwhile?

 

[*DiamondQueen*]

In my opinion it's nearly impossible to make a 'show ranking', i doubt anybody could do that

 

[Chalice]

It has been done before at TFS. Not so much ranking them, as grouping them according to what they can do for a model's career.

Originally Posted by fleur137
Top 35 Fashion Shows/Campaigns:
Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Anna Sui, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Burberry, Carolina Herrera, Chloe, Christian Lacroix, Dolce and Gabbana, Donna Karan, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, Givenchy, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Lagerfield Gallery Lanvin, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marni, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Missoni, Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Rochas, Valentino, Vera Wang, YSL Rive Gauche, Zac Posen

Priority Shows/Campaigns:
Calvin Klein, Chanel, Dior, Giorgio Armani (campaign only),Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Prada, Versace

 

[xPedro]

Chalice, it's easy to imagine which are the major shows and the major campaigns, it's not necessary to have any kind of rank! ¬¬'

 

[John Black]

Its funny that nobody mentioned Jill Sander show??? Thats one of the few shows where a model can get exclusivity. And also judging by the casting - u can spend there hours but its definitely worth it! Its tough to do an overal ranking but among the most important shows i would definitely count:
NYC:
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs
Ralp Lauren
MILAN:
Prada
Jill Sander
Gucci
PARIS:
Chanel
Dior
Valentino

 

[yourbestfriend]

I think if you were to attempt this, the basis would have to be per city than through the overall show season because that would be strenous. Also, sometimes its hard to pit the NYC shows against the Paris shows because they are often more important.

Overall, just from my POV, i'd probably rank it like this in no specific order

NYC: Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Anna Sui
Milan: Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, Versace
Paris: Balenciaga, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Balmain

My reasoning behind these rankings are in terms of overall exposure and not so much payment. Some of these shows are major shows that really get a new model on the map due to their hype for new faces, most specifically Calvin Klein exclusives, Prada openers, and Jil Sander openers. The other shows are based on what's "hot" such as Balenciaga and the strictness in model casting. Shows like Balmain only cast the top girls for example.

This is really just from my point of view and has no real rationality other than my opinion.

 

[oxymoron]

Prada, Miu Miu, Jil Sanders, Calvin Klein and Balenciaga. I would say those are the most important shows for a new model.

 

[smartarse]

OH! I just remembered, a few times a certain fashion commentator has asked me after a certain show i just saw how I liked XYZ's line... then i gave my opinion and then i was asked, "so how did you rate it from 1 to 10"? So I gave my ratings just for the hell of it. But never was it asked to rate a model, though. lol

Now that show season is over for the fall, how do we determine how some of the models did?

So, (for example) how do you compare a model who went to show season and did (15 shows

London:
Armand Basi
Danielle Scutt
Paul Smith
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Milan:[/FONT]
Alberta Ferretti
Antonio Marras
Belstaff
Just Cavalli
Luisa Beccaria
Pin-Up Stars
Valentin Yudashkin
Paris:
Akris
Barbara Bui
Christian Lacroix
Elie Saab
Michel Klein

with a model who did (ten shows

New York:
Eventide
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Paris:
Issey Miyake
Jean Paul Gaultier
Leonard
Mannish Arora
Veronique Leroy
Yohji Yamamoto
Zucca

Are the 15 shows better than the 10 shows?

Just in a general way it would be useful to see a show ranking that divides them into categories according to their usefulness for a model's career. (See previous quote from Callidora.)

It costs a lot to follow the show season through these expensive cities. What does it take to make it worthwhile?

 

[Faith Akiyama]

Now that show season is over for the fall, how do we determine how some of the models did?

So, (for example) how do you compare a model who went to show season and did (15 shows

London:
Armand Basi
Danielle Scutt
Paul Smith
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Milan:[/FONT]
Alberta Ferretti
Antonio Marras
Belstaff
Just Cavalli
Luisa Beccaria
Pin-Up Stars
Valentin Yudashkin
Paris:
Akris
Barbara Bui
Christian Lacroix
Elie Saab
Michel Klein

with a model who did (ten shows

New York:
Eventide
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Paris:
Issey Miyake
Jean Paul Gaultier
Leonard
Mannish Arora
Veronique Leroy
Yohji Yamamoto
Zucca

Are the 15 shows better than the 10 shows?

Just in a general way it would be useful to see a show ranking that divides them into categories according to their usefulness for a model's career. (See previous quote from Callidora.)

It costs a lot to follow the show season through these expensive cities. What does it take to make it worthwhile?

Beyond the show count, there's a lot regarding the versatility of the list as well as the status of the model. For a newer face, it's always advantageous to have either 1) A variety of shows on your record to prove that you can impress any casting director or 2) Exclusive bookings from more prominent labels that prove your in-demand status. When you're more established (After a few seasons), it's a lot easier to pick-and-choose the appropriate ones to walk -- in fact, you'll probably only be required/requested for just those shows.

With that said, if I had to compared the two lists you posted, I would first regard the bolded shows. Ultimately, however, it's evident from the lists that these two girls have completely different aesthetics to their look (Hence the lack of times that they actually share a runway). So it's nearly impossible to gauge who's actually "stronger."

 

[smokebreak]

Show importance varies season to season. The typical old standing ones like Prada and such always have their head-ship but most of the fuss each season is made over the up and coming ones. Oh a model did that... yeah yeah... but if a model does a hot show, people make a fuss and consider her a hot model to use. Basically it's about keeping up with each season's hot or not list as far as shows go.
Everyone will rank the shows differently
As far as who would have a better show season out of your examples, it really depends on the model, where her career is, and what she's looking for out of it.

Some of the above people marked very commercial shows as the strongest
others would go for very edgy and chic
people on the inside of the industry would count only the shows under certain casting directors to boost a girl's career that people on the outside would have no knowledge of. There's just no real ranking I'm afraid.

 

[emma peel]

why would rick owens be below dsquared?

 

[smokebreak]

that's how it would rank if someone felt the more commercial shows were better. it's just more known by consumers

 

[Chalice]

I look at the model showlists and they tell me nothing. So I am interested in what someone with more experience can see in a showlist.

from Faith Akiyama: these two girls have completely different aesthetics to their look

That is true. The two girls in the example couldn't be more different in style and appearance.

From Smokebreak: it really depends on the model, where her career is, and what she's looking for out of it.

Both girls in the example are doing their first show season.

 

[smokebreak]

Okay first show season. Depends on how they're being promoted first with either commercial or high fashion aim. Also depends on if they're first priority is money or prestige. Also brand new girls tend to come in "packages" in their first seasons in which case an agency might propose one girl on the terms that another gets picked as well and vice versa.
In otherwords, a majority of one of those girls shows could have just been booked not because of her demand but because she came along in a package with another girl who clients wanted to book. It's a possibility, but it works regardless. There's no better or worse.

In your example, the model who did 10 shows skipped London and Milan. That's typically skipped when a girl is put on hold for an exclusive. Looks like the pattern that happens with Prada "holds" which most new faces get put on hold for anyway. If she didn't get an exclusive I'd say she had a rough start with only those 10. Some good shows but it's not much exposure. The one who did 15 was notable in Milan and will have more exposure but missed New York which a lot of people inside the industry ask about. Both I'd say didn't have the best first season :-/

 

[smartarse]

In your example, the model who did 10 shows skipped London and Milan. That's typically skipped when a girl is put on hold for an exclusive. :-/

is that what happened to Daria few years ago? she was a no show especially in Paris and we were wondering what happened to her. then the buzz and talk got louder. rumors ensued. than all of the sudden we heard she wasn't feeling well , stayed home (in Canada) bla bla bla...