Your Best & Worst Collections of S/S 2024

[vogue28]

Let's get the ball rolling... now that Paris Fashion Week has to come to an end: which has been some of your best and worst collections of the S/S 2024 season?

My absolute HIGHLIGHT just has to go to Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, just like last season, and the season before that...

Also been very fond of Alexander McQueen, Hermes, Schiaparelli, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Max Mara, Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren which all spring to mind immediately.

Although it wasn't the worst show of the season, I felt incredibly letdown by Sabato de Sarno's Gucci debut.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Best:
Rabanne
Maison Margiela
Tom Ford
Uma Wang

Worst:
Balenciaga
Mugler
van Noten
Stella McCartney

Guilty Pleasure
Roberto Cavalli

Disappointing
Versace

 

[LadyJunon]

Alexander McQueen and Maison Margiela are joint as the best.
Bottega Veneta is a far second.
Courrèges, Tom Ford and Saint Laurent were quite good.
Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto grew on me.
Louis Vuitton and Sacai were a bit disappointing.
I've happily forgotten the rest of the month.

 

[Machinegumm]

Liked Saint Laurent and Tom Ford.

 

[DK92]

Max Mara, Tom Ford and Saint Laurent!

 

[jeanclaude]

Galliano for President! You can tell he has fun researching, playing with patterns, mixing fabrics...he loves being a fashion designer!!

The rest is just pure marketing 101. The worst (and predictably so) was Gucci and their stupid "ANCORA" marketing mantra.

 

[lightblue]

I liked Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Erdem, Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Undercover, Rokh

Worst is Dior, Stella McCartney, Mugler & Isabel Marant

 

[dancv]

Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent were the epitome of luxury of extreme ends.

JWA, Miu Miu and Courreges had great potential as separates.

And honourable mention to Yohji Yamamoto because the man has nothing to prove. He is like your grandpa who just does his own thing and you’re okay with it even when you don’t like it.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I liked Hugo Boss... fight me. Undercover was great. Rick Owens I have to talk to my therapist about. I liked Issey Miyake. Also Sarah Burton's farewell touched me a little. Margiela I liked too but I thought the presentation was kinda annoying as sh*t. There was a coat in the beginning I lovedddd but I just know it's gonna be like $7000 or something stupid like that and then not even produced lol.

 

[VERNIQUE]

Galliano for President! You can tell he has fun researching, playing with patterns, mixing fabrics...he loves being a fashion designer!!
.

THIS!

John was way ahead of the rest.

Only had similar «falling-deeply-in-love-feelings» after watching Bottega Veneta and McQueen.

Spotted a few desireable designs that are my cup of tea, nothing groundbreaking though, at Rabanne, Courrèges, Carven and Sacai.

The rest left me kind of depressed.

 

[Lola701]

First of all thank you to you @vogue28 and @LadyJunon for your commitment and for making it possible for us to react to those collections seasons after seasons.

My favorites this season are:
- Junya Watanabe
- Louis Vuitton
- Lutz Huelle

I liked:
- Maison Margiela
- Tom Ford
- Loewe & JWA
- Undercover
- Bottega Veneta
- Tory Burch

THE WORST:
- ANCORA
- Atlein
- Schiaparelli
- Isabel Marant
- Bally
- Helmut Lang

 

[disco54]

Best
- Tom Ford
- YSL
-Loewe
-Alberta Ferretti
-Lorenzo Serafini


Decent
-Louis Vuitton
-Stelle McCartney
-Cavalli
-Armani
- Ralph Lauren

-Rest were just bad

Absolute Trash

-Chanel
-Gucci
-Fendi
-LaQuan Smith
-Balenciaga
-Chloe
-Gabriela Hurst
-Coach
-Collina Strada
-Isabel Marant

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Best (from memory...)
Undercover
Jason Wu
[Paco] Rabanne
MM6
Sharon Wauchob

Enjoyed:
LV
Margiela
Watanabe
Yamamoto
Lutz Huelle
Carlyne's section for Moschino
Cavalli (trashy and tacky, but the good kind)
Ralph Lauren
Tom Ford
McQueen

Intrigued:
Bottega (so much going on with it, it was hard to find full focus and to enjoy it)
Hugo Boss (as film costume, it makes sense. As fashion, no)

Worst:
Majority of New York Fashion Week
Balenciaga
Gucci
Helmut Lang
Mugler
Hearst/Chloé

A lot of collections left me feeling confused this season. I enjoyed more than I thought at large, but a lot of what I did enjoy I was left feeling perplexed about it's placement in relation to who it was for brand wise (i.e. Tory Burch). There was also a lot of lackluster predictability and design ethos flip flopping. Even though there wasn't a lot of noise this season, the amount of stuff that was shown this season was noisy enough it took me a while to recollect what I saw over the course of a month.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

This was an underwhelming season. There really wasn't a single collection that was a knockout. Everything was fairly moderate in terms of creativity. It's a strange time and that was reflected in the collections. There is certainly a lot of uncertainty. Designers are responding by playing it safe by pushing commercial clothing. The designers that stood out are the ones that stayed true to their aesthetic while still providing visual interest.

Best:
Jason Wu
Prada
Max Mara
Bottega Veneta
Roberto Cavalli
Dolce & Gabbana
Tom Ford
Alexander McQueen
Maison Margiela

Worst
Helmut Lang
Fendi
Versace
Gucci
Chloe

 

[kiwigrape]

though people were talking about how Versace and Gucci made amazing shows and collections, I was left confused. I didn't them but Gucci was better than Vesrace.
I Loved Alexander McQueen. MM6. YSL. Tom Ford. D&G. Prada. Roberto Cavalli but I liked their last show more. i loved loewe. I was confused by those extremely high waisted trousers. I'm sure Harry styles would love them.
I didn't like Fendi, Mugler, Dior, Helmut Lang.
I loved Sarah Burtonn's work as on this season as well as in general. I think she was great fit for this brand. I can't wait to see what furture creative director will do at Alexander McQueen's.

 

[Salvatore]

The highlights of the season were for sure YSL and Maison Margiela. It’s interesting to me as while YSL had a minimalist collection with essentially a maximalist show, Maison Margiela was the exact opposite, but they both felt luxurious. Maison Margiela by John has not been a favourite or has felt luxurious to me so it is a surprise. YSL is stuck in my brain.

Going backwards through the rest of the shows, I enjoyed Schiaparelli, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Loro Piano, Giorgio Armani, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford (even if I expected more), and surprisingly Brandon Maxwell.

 

[Nimsay]

NYFW

Best: Jason Wu

Honorable Mention: Naeem Kahn

Worst: Elena Velez


LFW
Best: JWA

honorable: McQueen

Worst: a big list


MFW
Best: MM6

honorable: D&G

Worst: Fendi


PFW
Best: MM

honorable: Yamamoto

Worst: Lanvin

 

[Constructionist]

Best :
Sacai
Yohji Yamamoto
Valentino
Alexander McQueen

Worst :
Miu Miu
Louis Vuitton womens
Chanel
Dior
Helmut Lang

Atrocious :
Balenciaga

 

[Ruito]

My favorite shows of the season were:

1) Alexander McQueen
2) Undercover
3) Chloé
4) Erdem
5) Dries Van Noten
6) Rabanne
7) Max Mara
8) Ulla Johnson
9) Ralph Lauren
10) Bottega Veneta

 

[Olaffo]

Main FW2024 trend: banality

Best FW 2024: Margiela (Glad to see Galliano back on runway), McQueen (Sarah's poetic farwell) and Prada (best season up to date).

Worst: from Chanel, Dior, Valentino, through Gucci's trainwreck to Balenciaga; most of the shows I've seen I have already forgotten so I guess we can count them as bad.

Shows I liked but not necessarily best: Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Ann Demeulemeester, The Row, Bottega Veneta.