Your Best & Worst Collections of S/S 2022

[vogue28]

That's a wrap on fashion month with PFW coming to an official close earlier today with the Az Factory/Alber Elbaz tribute, and I thought we'd waste no time in dissecting the best and worst of the season.

My personal faves have been Dundas x Revolve, Moschino, Tom Ford, Versace, Fendi, Versace x Fendi, Ports 1961, Saint Laurent, Balmain and Chanel. Saint Laurent may have been my absolute highlight of the season, followed by Fendi which I thought was just flawless.

The biggest surprise of the season turned out to be Maria Grazia Chiuri's Christian Dior collection which was a vast VAST improvement from previous seasons and a personal disappointment for me was Max Mara.

What has been some of your best and worst of the season?

 

[dontbeadrag]

Absolutely spiritual experience:
Theyskens
Loewe

Great:
Yohji Yamamoto

Good:
Miu Miu
CdG
Dior
Chanel
Lanvin

Mediocre:
Too many to count

Atrocious:
Louis Vuitton
Collina Strada
Moschino
Fendace
Versace
Fendi
Ludovic de Saint Pornin

 

[GERGIN]

Ekhaus Latta, Y Project, Sharon Wauchob, Alberta Ferretti, Missoni, Dsquared2, Emilio Pucci, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Courreges, Loewe, Valentino, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Undercover, Olivier Theysens, Miu Miu, and AZ Factory for the win.

Everything else can burn.

 

[gossiping]

Best
Acne Studios
Courreges
Fendace
Versace
Fendi
Loewe
Valentino
Saint Laurent
Burberry
Chanel
Sportmax
Khaite

Worst
Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Hermes, Prada, Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Tom Ford, most of london and NYFW

 

[GreyVetiver]

Best

• Loewe
• Olivier Theykens
• Saint Laurent
• Dries Van Noten
• Yohji Yamamoto
• Miu Miu

Don’t care about the rest.

 

[TZ001]

Personal favorites:
Miu Miu
Saint Laurent
Louis Vuitton (hate the styling)
Saint Laurent (hate those catsuits)
AZ Factory

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Best: Theyskens, Rick Owens, Yohji, Courreges, AZ Factory

Launching myself into the sun: Fendace

My best list actually made me feel this season. I haven't felt that way the past few years of fashion weeks, so I'm optimistic! I think lol

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Oh also liked Emilia Wickstead

 

[JohannesL]

Love Olivier Theyskens at his best!

 

[jeanclaude]

Olivier Theyskens was a total hit.

 

[maimon]

i liked Ports 1961, Simone Rocha, Yohji, Miu Miu, Kolor, beautiful people and AZ Factory.
oh and i liked the overall vibe of the Dsquared2 show. glad they are not going the trash route of D&G...

worst to my eyes was probably those awful print mess at Cavalli.

 

[Abby Zacky]

Best : Valentino, David Koma, Schiaparelli, Fendance, Lanvin, OLIVIER THEYSKENS, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, Brandon Maxwell, Tory Burch, YSL, Zimmermann, Chanel


Worst : Moschino, No.21, Philosophy,

 

[Norden]

Praise worthy:
Theyskens, loewe

Doing what has to be done:
Rick Owens, Schiaparelli, courreges, miu miu

Shame
Dior, Versace, fendi and it’s bastard child.

The rest feels irrelevant.

 

[Lola701]

After letting time goes by a little bit, I can’t say that I have a best or worst collection. I think it was an interesting season because fashion is a at a very unsettle era. The industry is facing a lot of challenges in an institutional, creative and financial way. It values are challenged and it’s not only what’s going at CN…It’s also what’s going on on the runway.

I saw too much nostalgia. Something that I don’t like. Referencing a moment, an outfit or one thing that can have that emotional connection to people can be great but trying to revive a long gone past feels desperate. We can’t recreate the world of yesterday so why trying so hard to recreate the clothes and the feeling without the context?

Consumerism is the key to everything of course. More logos, more stuff, more collaborations and even more less innovation.

But I think Loewe and Burberry created as a whole collections that I think responded to the challenges of today.

Loewe was really about that tension between Art and Commerce. It was clever. The clothes were challenging sometimes but it was well made and inspiring enough for a HF customer to go deep into the brand. The accessories were fabulous and had a clear IG appeal.

Burberry for me was what a good commercial collection in 2021 for 2022 can be. It was a creative director reaffirming his vision. He didn’t need a collaboration to do a seasonal print. The clothes felt fashionable, modern and real. The accessories were practical and well designed.


Maybe I want to Highlight Vuitton because it was a brave collection. Even with all the criticism I can have for Ghesquiere and MAS, I like that commercial success hasn’t made him stop his creative journey. A lot of the pieces will be produced in very very limited quantities but it had enough creative integrity to help sell the A-line dresses and familiar silhouettes and pieces he does every season for the commercial collection.

 

[Machinegumm]

Favourites: Olivier Theyskens, Rick Owens, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Yohji Yamamoto
Like: Loewe, Junya Watanabe, Simone Rocha
Worst: Way too many. Tbh, most were forgettable.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Best

Junya Watanabe. A return to form from one of fashion's chief technicians. Reality shares a space with fantasy in a moving collection like I haven't seen in years.

Noir Kei Ninomiya. Powerful show that perfectly showcases his new found confidence and ability to simultaneously shock and seduce.

Tao. Comeback of the year, at once unexpected and welcomed. Seems like all those years without her name on the label gave her time to think over what she really wants to say.

Comme des Garçons. The great dame of avant-garde was always oblivious to the expectations placed on her and thanks God that hasn't changed.

Yohji Yamamoto. The power of perfect cutting, the more he strips away, the stronger his creations become.

Olivier Theyskens. He's passion for his craft is unwavering. A collection as intimate and true to himself as ever.

Good

Dries Van Noten. A treatise on color and texture that I honestly didn't expect from him but I guess he got tired of the "everyday" territory he's inhabited all throughout his career...It really grew on me.

Miu Miu. Lolita goes to the office-wear section armed with a pair of scissors. Provocative in a very nonchalant way.

Louis Vuitton. Really good pieces among the messy styling plus a great presentation, probably the best of the season.

Rick Owens. The shoulder-mania I could do without but he showed great talent in contrasting the sharp and the billowing.

Sharon Wauchob: She quietly produces some of fashion's freshest ideas.

Undercover. One more season firmly planted in the safe route, I didn't fully understand what he looked to achieve with this parade of slightly quirky Betty Draper's but it wasn't without its pleasures.

Loewe. Crystal clear vision of a fresh type of luxury. Some rare madness within the gilded corridors of LVMH and all the more precious because of it.

Hyke. Nothing too ambitious but this was a collection with a laser-focused technique and aesthetic. They should definitely try showing in Paris someday.

Altuzarra. Smouldering and refined where most of New York was beyond sl*tty.

Issey Miyake. Soft sculptures rendered wearable.

Worst

Prada. A mess of badly fitted clothes disguised as conceptual. A pointless exercise.

Roberto Cavalli. Three-cent cheap garb fit only for the Real Housewives of something or other.

Jil Sander. Awful silhouettes throughout, this should be the death kneel of the oversized trend.

Fendace. With collections like this it's obvious that the end is near.

Saint Laurent. Frighteningly cheap catsuits to serve beer at some highway joint. Is that Yves' legacy?

LaQuan Smith. A new low in the pornification of women.

Dolce & Gabbana. Incapable of evolving, they are degenerating into one of Milan's worst wastes of fabric.

Dullest

Fendi. Safe and expected where Silvia's Fendi was exciting and new.

Richard Quinn. It's hardly revolutionary to present copies of five-year-old collections sewn with your grandma's curtains.

Peter Do. The future of american fashion looks more drab with each passing season.

Ann Demeulemeester. In spite of the great casting and competent styling this was nothing if not trite and uninspired.

Gucci/Balenciaga. An MGM budget spent in the presentation to disguise Ed-Wood-level collections.

Givenchy. A total lack of technique can only breed collections such as this.

Marni. The asylum as run by the patients.

JW. Anderson. Just there.

Most Inspired By...

Ports 1961. For the second season running a Ghesquiére tribute act.

Proenza Schouler. The more seasons they're allowed to keep showing, the more shameless they become. The quality did look great when compared with the rest of NY.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Best: Olivier Theyskens. (Nice seeing him in almost everyone’s list)

Memorable: Loewe, Miu Miu.

Worst: The rest.