Maison Margiela S/S 2024 Paris

[90sFan]

With "movement direction" by Leon Damme?

It's unmistakably Fashion with a capital F. Do I like it? No, not my cup of tea at all. Do I enjoy looking at it? For entertainment, yes because he's greatly skilled.

Why is this Fashion with a capital F? Does capital F imply old fashioned ways??! I hope not…. But Galliano is just so old fashioned in every possible way. Cringe to watch this

 

[Thefrenchy]

Why is this Fashion with a capital F? Does capital F imply old fashioned ways??! I hope not…. But Galliano is just so old fashioned in every possible way. Cringe to watch this

Because it's actually designed, you feel the craft. At a time when most designers make shows to present collections that they didn't design but simply tweaked a few vintage pieces they got on a research trip, it's quite refreshing to see. It's not my cup of tea at all but there is a real master work behind those pieces and it shows.

 

[tourbillions]

this is what Demna thinks he's doing at balenciaga. love visiting margiela stores just to see galliano's work. that model's walk at 3:35 is giving old school galliano/mcqueen vibes, im here for it. This collection's a great middle point of cdg craziness and wearability.

 

[Kimihiro]

This gives me joy! I hate the styling and the gimmicks but those clothes are fabulous. I want to see them in shops. With the coats in particular you could see someone who’s a master at their craft in charge.

 

[Mr-Dale]

There's often a sense of emotional urgency in his work for Margiela (sometimes more so than other times tbf), but this one felt particularly moving for some reason. Most of the motifs here are familiar tropes now (decortiqué, gender fluidity, the clashing of eras, all the hunching over, subverting couture codes etc), but when it's backed by beautifully cut, commercially viable pieces as well as imaginative design, then it just hits right.
Excellent tailoring on those opening looks and, God, those coats are to die for.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I loved the collection, one of the few shows where it was actually worth it to watch the livestream…the videography was top notch, it gave me the perfect amount of detail shots, atmospheric views of the venue and slowed down moments to amplify the drama of certain looks and the way the models were instructed to gaze down at the camera for their close-up made it more entertaining than about 99% shows.

I don’t think it was the most impressive show of the season but it was one of the few where you could feel a beating heart behind every look. Second to last dress is probably my highlight, only Galliano (and Yohji) can sell the illusion of something that’s at once shoddy, haphazard and breathtakingly beautiful.

 

[nilobraz]

It's a great collection, the only thing I didn't like was the colored part, he should have done everything in black

 

[Phuel]

if you're talking about 2007-2011, i agree. i choose to forget those years happened. madame butterfly was his last truly great couture outing at dior. everything that came before was sublime.

I’m not that hard on him LOL Mostly the Egyptian collection. And his ideal of menswear never did quite lived up to the supremacy of his womenswear, so best to leave that component of his fashion vision by the wayside as well. (But what he’s proposing with androgyny in this offering, that references everyone from the court of Louis XVl to Marc Bolan is spectacularly rich without a hint of costume nor camp.)

More than anything, he never relied on past glories— and that includes the nostalgia of his Superfriends (…whom would have outperformed this cast so effortlessly with heh androgynous persona). I loath nostalgia in any creative form, from pop/matinee idols to fashion idols. And John thankfully seems to as well, and also remains the only designer that’s forged forward and never looked back, while still evolving his aesthetic and technical proficiency. I can’t say he’s my fav since a designer that doesn’t seem particularly interested in menswear will never be on the same level as one that’s as equally supreme in their vision of men as they are for women. But he’s still in a league of his own: His commitment, devotion, discipline and outright love of fashion— alongside his unmatched skills in construction, and deconstruction, is untarnished, undiminished and unrelenting, even after all these years. I can’t think of any other Greats who’s so dedicated on this level deep into their careers. He does seem possessed by the Holy Ghost of fashion as a true living Rumpelstiltskin: Every cut, every proportion, every color-palette, every texture, every sheer force of will in his vision of character is effortlessly on the highest level of standard— and never gimmicky. He’s that magical.

(BTW, fair enough that some find the performance of the cast distracting. That’s the charm, the theatricality, of John's production. John’s always bestowed this brand of possessing a collection and its presentation steeped in mood, attitude, tone of history, characters, and purpose. The fashions serve his characters, rather than just be empty mannequins wearing merchandise; which sadly, has become the norm in this fashion era. That John is still the master storyteller, while still honoring the Margiela brand, is what makes it worthwhile to have him. If it’s just going to be more Margiela staples, then just have a team design the routine merch.)

 

[CholoChic]

Please can anyone share the details photos from Vogue

 

[fenty]

This is GALLIANO from the dramatics, the pieces everything about it was him im in love

 

[PierreGotha]

This is the intense flame in a field of whimpering embers. Galliano saved paris fashion week.

 

[NoAdvertising71]

This is great though, one of the few collections this season that's really made me *think* and *look*.

Some of them even look like lamp shades. Lol.

 

[NoAdvertising71]

I’m not that hard on him LOL Mostly the Egyptian collection. And his ideal of menswear never did quite lived up to the supremacy of his womenswear, so best to leave that component of his fashion vision by the wayside as well. (But what he’s proposing with androgyny in this offering, that references everyone from the court of Louis XVl to Marc Bolan is spectacularly rich without a hint of costume nor camp.)

More than anything, he never relied on past glories— and that includes the nostalgia of his Superfriends (…whom would have outperformed this cast so effortlessly with heh androgynous persona). I loath nostalgia in any creative form, from pop/matinee idols to fashion idols. And John thankfully seems to as well, and also remains the only designer that’s forged forward and never looked back, while still evolving his aesthetic and technical proficiency. I can’t say he’s my fav since a designer that doesn’t seem particularly interested in menswear will never be on the same level as one that’s as equally supreme in their vision of men as they are for women. But he’s still in a league of his own: His commitment, devotion, discipline and outright love of fashion— alongside his unmatched skills in construction, and deconstruction, is untarnished, undiminished and unrelenting, even after all these years. I can’t think of any other Greats who’s so dedicated on this level deep into their careers. He does seem possessed by the Holy Ghost of fashion as a true living Rumpelstiltskin: Every cut, every proportion, every color-palette, every texture, every sheer force of will in his vision of character is effortlessly on the highest level of standard— and never gimmicky. He’s that magical.

(BTW, fair enough that some find the performance of the cast distracting. That’s the charm, the theatricality, of John's production. John’s always bestowed this brand of possessing a collection and its presentation steeped in mood, attitude, tone of history, characters, and purpose. The fashions serve his characters, rather than just be empty mannequins wearing merchandise; which sadly, has become the norm in this fashion era. That John is still the master storyteller, while still honoring the Margiela brand, is what makes it worthwhile to have him. If it’s just going to be more Margiela staples, then just have a team design the routine merch.)

Your quotes are always the epitome of sublime!!

 

[NoAdvertising71]

Your quotes are always the epitome of sublime!!

And....no disrespect to J. Galliano. He's always been a favorite of mine...for a very long time. I've always admired his passion for theatricality....same could be said in regards to Jean Paul Gaultier. Basically....J. Galliano was always a designer that I could rely upon to give me a show. Kinda like in mini movie... with a story line that will unfold.

 

[FashioNarrating]

Ugh, I can't bring myself to like theatrics of the sort at Margiela, no matter how well-made the pieces are.. I wish he got his own brand back - or the McQueen spot. There he could present more of the stuff he obviously misses doing (bias cut dresses, taffeta volumes etc) with all the hip-swinging and zigzag walking he wants.

 

[gallianostan]

Ugh, I can't bring myself to like theatrics of the sort at Margiela, no matter how well-made the pieces are.. I wish he got his own brand back - or the McQueen spot. There he could present more of the stuff he obviously misses doing (bias cut dresses, taffeta volumes etc) with all the hip-swinging and zigzag walking he wants.

he so obviously deserved the mcqueen spot. we'll see where he ends up when his current contract ends. i love him at margiela but it's about time he went somewhere else now. hopefully, mcgirr's stint at mcqueen is bad enough to warrant another round of musical chairs.

 

[Lola701]

Ugh, I can't bring myself to like theatrics of the sort at Margiela, no matter how well-made the pieces are.. I wish he got his own brand back - or the McQueen spot. There he could present more of the stuff he obviously misses doing (bias cut dresses, taffeta volumes etc) with all the hip-swinging and zigzag walking he wants.

His clothes couldn’t be more different to McQueen…Or did I miss something.
I have always found the comparison between the two a bit ridiculous because beyond being from similar background, having a parallel career and having a sense of theatricality, their clothes are very different.
I’m maybe the only one but I have always felt like they are from two totally different universes.

But then again Margiela is a different universe to his own and it forces him to create very modern clothes.

John is embedded by his time at Dior and the kind of women he was dressing there. Once Arnault stopped the madhouse days and changed the strategy, suddenly, John designed for the very sophisticated woman we kind of see here and there in his current collections.

But Margiela being Margiela, being about the street. It has forced him to approach fashion in a more grounded way.

‘And I think the reason of the success of Margiela right now is because in the shops, you see intelligent, practical and very designed pieces. His work is more relevant than ever.

‘McQueen is a luxury brand now. The spirit is different. Lee used to reference the past in some obvious ways but I wonder if it’s relevant for John.

‘It’s all science fiction in a way because Pinault will never hire John Galliano anyway. Renzo Rosso is happy. He is happy that Anna Wintour is happy and hyper supportive and despite the very little marketing, the brand is doing well….

 

[gallianostan]

His clothes couldn’t be more different to McQueen…Or did I miss something.
I have always found the comparison between the two a bit ridiculous because beyond being from similar background, having a parallel career and having a sense of theatricality, their clothes are very different.
I’m maybe the only one but I have always felt like they are from two totally different universes.

i'm not sure. looking at john's last collection for givenchy, it could easily pass for a mcqueen outing at the same house.

 

[jeanclaude]

The fair thing would be he could design under his own name again, so he wouldn´t have to follow anyone DNA...but his pure genious DNA.

Hope some day he could buy the rights to his name from LVMH.

 

[Lola701]

i'm not sure. looking at john's last collection for givenchy, it could easily pass for a mcqueen outing at the same house.

The question is also « Is John the same designer he was 27 years ago »?
Do we want him to be the same designer he was in 1996?
I don’t think they dress the same woman actually. Their work at Givenchy was equally spectacular even if I hated Lee’s tenure but I don’t think they dressed the same woman. Givenchy is about a certain idea of classicism and bourgeois dressing. So of course there are similarities but it’s only my opinion, their work wasn’t comparable.

It’s almost a paradox for me to say that because I have 2/3 pieces from both of them. The McQueen woman has always had something unapproachable about her. Very constructed. structured clothes when the Galliano woman has always been more frivolous and sensual with a very round cut.

The fair thing would be he could design under his own name again, so he wouldn´t have to follow anyone DNA...but his pure genious DNA.

Hope some day he could buy the rights to his name from LVMH.

I think it was last year that Sydney Toledano declared that they talked, John apologized and he accepted the apology and everything. I guess that’s what made possible for them to aknowledge his heritage for Dior through the book they released.
So he is cordial with the LVMH camp. The question is to know if the brand itself is free from the licensing agreement they had. I don’t think it’s a functioning operation anymore..
And it needs to be a desire for John too. He could buy back to own the rights to his name but that does not mean that he would work under his name.