Maison Margiela S/S 2024 Paris

[FashioNarrating]

His clothes couldn’t be more different to McQueen…Or did I miss something.
I have always found the comparison between the two a bit ridiculous because beyond being from similar background, having a parallel career and having a sense of theatricality, their clothes are very different.
I’m maybe the only one but I have always felt like they are from two totally different universes.

But then again Margiela is a different universe to his own and it forces him to create very modern clothes.

John is embedded by his time at Dior and the kind of women he was dressing there. Once Arnault stopped the madhouse days and changed the strategy, suddenly, John designed for the very sophisticated woman we kind of see here and there in his current collections.

But Margiela being Margiela, being about the street. It has forced him to approach fashion in a more grounded way.

‘And I think the reason of the success of Margiela right now is because in the shops, you see intelligent, practical and very designed pieces. His work is more relevant than ever.

‘McQueen is a luxury brand now. The spirit is different. Lee used to reference the past in some obvious ways but I wonder if it’s relevant for John.

‘It’s all science fiction in a way because Pinault will never hire John Galliano anyway. Renzo Rosso is happy. He is happy that Anna Wintour is happy and hyper supportive and despite the very little marketing, the brand is doing well….

Well I would say their clothes could be more different which doesn't mean there aren't significant differences in their sensibilities/approach. However, just as McQueen was, Galliano is one of the fiercest tailors among the working creative directors, with an equally strong, albeit differently directed penchant for drama expressed in fabric.
While I mostly like what I see in a Margiela store nowadays, some of the stuff he presents on the runway - in this collection, the dresses with hints of side-bustles which after some tweaking really wouldn't look that off on a McQueen runway - is lowkey screeching that he yearns to do something more gestural. More than the street, Margiela to me was always about the garments on their own, and while Galliano is great at constructing them, the way he garnishes and presents them tells me that he still loves and craves some pomp, which is the polar opposite of the Margiela ethos imo.

 

[gallianostan]

The McQueen woman has always had something unapproachable about her. Very constructed. structured clothes when the Galliano woman has always been more frivolous and sensual with a very round cut.

this is very true. although, the one sensibility thing that continually links their work is, i find, that romantic historicism. in any case, they're far more compatible on a theoretical level than, let's say, margiela and john would have been.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I agree Lola, I feel like Galliano designing under the McQueen label would be kinda too obvious and not that challenging? Yes it'd be beautiful but if we brought back the same theatric obvious historical costume cosplay stuff it'd be kinda like... "that again?". It was done perfectly when they did it back then. Don't ruin it. Move forward and grow. Or in Galliano's case, he's getting older. He doesn't have to prove anything to anyone anymore and may just want to have fun, and that fun looks like Margiela.

 

[Lola701]

this is very true. although, the one sensibility thing that continually links their work is, i find, that romantic historicism. in any case, they're far more compatible on a theoretical level than, let's say, margiela and john would have been.

Yes maybe…
But I think it’s cultural after all…
Even if Lee was a big fan of Martin Margiela. I think that in general, people have a very superficial idea of what Margiela was. I cringe when I hear people say that he was a minimalist. He did minimalism at Hermes but it’s one of the layers of his body of work.

‘I think what John and Lee had in common in terms of culture is on the flip side what John and Martin have in terms of techniques and philosophy.

Martin never seeked the validation as grand couturier like Lee and John did.

Lee and John were eccentrics and Martin was an iconoclast.

 

[jeanclaude]

And it needs to be a desire for John too. He could buy back to own the rights to his name but that does not mean that he would work under his name.

Yes, you are right again. Maybe he is able to get his name back...but also maybe he does not want to be in the spotlight as before. After all that happened, it could be that he prefers now to remain "hidden" working under other designer brand.

As long as he is happy (and you can tell he is enjoying his work) it does not matter where he is.

 

[Nimsay]

Whose to say LVMH is willing to sell it. They turned John Galliano into a mid-range shoe like. This is the most saleable his mens shoes have ever been.

As far as John feeling “good” goes. I cant imagine his mental health journey over this decade. I was wondering - before the show - what returning to Paris Fashion Week mustve been like for him.



I think JG at McQ would be a huge mistake. JG at YSL would be ideal. Balenciaga already pretends to have HC while YSL HC nameplate costs Kering more money. So Balenciaga makes the most sense in the now.

 

[gallianostan]

I think JG at McQ would be a huge mistake. JG at YSL would be ideal. Balenciaga already pretends to have HC while YSL HC nameplate costs Kering more money. So Balenciaga makes the most sense in the now.

balenciaga is the last thing he needs. the optics of a perceived antisemite at a house already steeped in controversy are awful. conversely, mcqueen is a brand that, in its heyday, thrived on controversy, theatrics, and imagination.

 

[HazJW]

Some of them even look like lamp shades. Lol.

Was this about the hats? Haha, I get them a bit more now having looked at the stills...

 

[Nimsay]

it really makes kering look quite bad. To be frank Keeing always seems like the minor leagues compared to LVMH. if demna did that at a LVMH property he would be on the first Skoda back to eastern europe. Bernard Arnault would ruin him and leave him with just a few coins for an airbnb in transylvania.

balenciaga is the last thing he needs. the optics of a perceived antisemite at a house already steeped in controversy are awful. conversely, mcqueen is a brand that, in its heyday, thrived on controversy, theatrics, and imagination.

so we are going to marr the McQ heritage with an anti semite. Also McQ was controverisal for like bumsters, spray painting models, highland r*pe collection. Those were all fashion propositions that were highly intellectualized criticisms of society. Thats totally different than a non fashion controversy like JG.

JGs most highly intellectualized pieces came after McQ really.


Bal by JG would be fashions darling. A hard-to-get exotic demi-couture label. Sign me up. My Galliano OG menswear is old af. I cant keep wearing these bias cut cargos anymore.

 

[CholoChic]

When I saw the details my heart was in fire, I was thinking of all those petit mains having fun in the ateliers doing stitches, basting, darning and all those insignificant pre sew thread stitches that Galliano transformed in art. This show is an story to discover like a painting from an artist painter. Galliano after all is an artist, an painter, an illustrator telling amazing fashion stories with simple itches and cardboard in the edge of fashion saving Paris from all those pretentious designers that couldn't move our hearts as much as John has done all these years. The industry knows that after Galliano there is nobody, there is no relief, so he is is a living legend, a Paris Treasure and the reason why Paris Fashion week is still relevant. Long life to the King.

 

[tourbillions]

im in agreement with john and mcqueen's works being highly comparable. Ofcourse they are both amazing tailors and put their heart out on their clothes so the details in their work will never be the same. Their clothes are an extension of their mind and heart. However, looking at the big picture, the theatrics, the tailoring, the love for hats and extreme styling, i could see a parallel universe where their clothes are coming from the same collection. Even a bigger picture that is more relevant now, when both of their works are watered down into something more commercial and sellable as the parent groups want, you will end up somewhere along the lines of Burton's Mcqueen.

 

[gallianostan]

The industry knows that after Galliano there is nobody, there is no relief, so he is is a living legend, a Paris Treasure and the reason why Paris Fashion week is still relevant. Long life to the King.

hear, hear!

 

[Norden]

And I think the reason of the success of Margiela right now is because in the shops, you see intelligent, practical and very designed pieces. His work is more relevant than ever.

this is very true. In the shops the clothes are stunning. Amazing fabrication, great cuts, really unique detailing. It’s a medicine against all the generic workwear inspired garments that are the same at any house. Almost every piece feels touched and carefully taken care of. I find his margiela really beautiful for that reason. If you strip it of colors and bad accessories. You get smart and sensitive clothes. I’m happy with him there.

 

[90sFan]

this is what Demna thinks he's doing at balenciaga. love visiting margiela stores just to see galliano's work. that model's walk at 3:35 is giving old school galliano/mcqueen vibes, im here for it. This collection's a great middle point of cdg craziness and wearability.

I wish he does this crap under his own name. And not under the name of the genius that was Margiela.

 

[90sFan]

hear, hear!

oh boy

 

[Overindulgence]

The classic look of Margiela lives in MM6 (seriously, they do a great job). But the artisanal factor/spirit lives in Galliano's Margiela. And of course there's the designers like Demna, JW, Nicolas, and Phoebe who all incorporate Margiela-isms into their work. I think Galliano's approach is charming, very genuine, and smart given how many designers already take from what many may associate with Margiela (see the sentence before this).

Galliano has been at Margiela for almost 10 years. The fact A) it really does not feel that long (perhaps it's the fact that he doesn't present as much over the past couple of years), B) we still look forward to his collections and have opinions on it and C) sales are good and Margiela still being in the fashion convo, I have to say he's doing something right. And this is coming from someone who doesn't even buy Margiela or identify with it much.

 

[Urban Stylin]

It is terrible FF Channel changing original soundtrack a lot of poetry lost!

For a moment there I forgot that i was watching FF, was wondering why they used 2000s lounge music. Hopefully there's an original video somewhere.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Not sure if this is the original music.

 

[Urban Stylin]

I wonder why Maria Carla never took up acting. Her expressions and emotions always capture the collection.

 

[reese06]

In case anyone is interested in the whole galliano and McQueen discussion. Here is an oldie

John Galliano vs. Alexander McQueen